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  #21  
Old 02-04-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezcome-ezgo View Post
Don't recall seeing a 2-stroke vertical to horizontal conversion. Assuming you are converting it of course.
Yes, I'll just be rotating the engine 90 degrees so that it is then horizontal shaft. This can't be done with 4 strokes, because lubrication is then an issue. Picture #1 (below) shows the carb orientation when the engine is vertical shaft, such as on the mower it came off of. Picture #2 (below) shows what the carb will be like after rotating the engine for go kart use. Picture #3 (below) shows the carb orientation I will need for using the engine on a go kart. (I'm sure that if you're reading this you already know this lol).

My problem is the reed valve at the end of the plastic intake manifold. There are no bolts or even a gasket between the PLASTIC manifold and the intake port on the engine, just an o-ring . I thought I could rotate the manifold 90 degrees to fix this problem, but then the reed valve wouldn't open up into the square opening in the side of the engine (see picture #4 and #5), and even if I did manage to rotate it 90 degrees so that the carb is upright, the air/fuel would be hitting a solid wall.

So, I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the reed valve (circled in green in pictures #4 and #5) cannot be rotated and must stay like it is.

One of the biggest problems is that the intake manifold is plastic. If only it were aluminium...

Any suggestions? Know anyone on this website who has done something like this before?? I'm stumped and I can't really see an easy way out...
  #22  
Old 02-04-2018, 11:30 AM
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Here are the pictures regarding the previous post:
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IMG_5204.JPG   IMG_5207.JPG  

IMG_5206.JPG  
  #23  
Old 02-04-2018, 02:14 PM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...IAAOSwv0tU9XQY

Simple! Works at any angle!

Edit- I take that back, I did not see the o-ring setup. That is strange. But you could still make a adapter. Or if the o-ring is 1in it will fit the bore of the tillotson.
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  #24  
Old 02-05-2018, 06:39 AM
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Update:
Iím modifying the current manifold for use with the current carb, and will post pictures when done... hint- it involves j-b weld lol.

My next problem is that this engine has a 7/8Ē shaft. I cannot find a clutch for with a 7/8Ē bore.
Need some help here. Thanks

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 AM ----------

Update:
Iím modifying the current manifold for use with the current carb, and will post pictures when done... hint- it involves j-b weld lol.

My next problem is that this engine has a 7/8Ē shaft. I cannot find a clutch for with a 7/8Ē bore.
Need some help here. Thanks
  #25  
Old 02-06-2018, 12:38 AM
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Might need an adapter. I built a minibike with a two stroke lawnmower engine and it had a tapered shaft.

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  #26  
Old 02-06-2018, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karl View Post
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...IAAOSwv0tU9XQY

Simple! Works at any angle!

Edit- I take that back, I did not see the o-ring setup. That is strange. But you could still make a adapter. Or if the o-ring is 1in it will fit the bore of the tillotson.
That carburetor has a port in the mounting base that is a impulse port that leads to the diaphragm in the carburetor which requires impulses from the crankcase in order for the carburetor to work. Two cycle engines that use this carburetor have a impulse port or channel that lead to the crankcase right on the cylinder intake where the carburetor bolts on that line up to the impulse port on the carburetor.
This carburetor would not work on your engine unless you were able to provide a impulse source from the crankcase which can be done.
There are other diaphragm type carburetors that have a small hose bung that receives crankcase impulses via bung tapped into the crankcase and they are connected by a line or hose in order to send the needed impulses to the carburetor.
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  #27  
Old 02-06-2018, 02:04 PM
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Look in this photo as I am pointing with the tips of my dividers at both of the impulse ports I described in the previous post.
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  #28  
Old 02-06-2018, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertduler View Post
That carburetor has a port in the mounting base that is a impulse port that leads to the diaphragm in the carburetor which requires impulses from the crankcase in order for the carburetor to work.
That only drives the fuel pump, right? I had no issues blocking that off and using only gravity feed or pulse pump.



Or you could have spun the factory carb 90 degrees and mounted the engine on its side.
  #29  
Old 02-07-2018, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
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A friendís dad owns a sandblasting business (if you live of the east coast of Florida, hit up Tresure Coast Dustless Blasting!).
Your out in Vero Beach? That's about an hour and half from me, (Lake Wales)
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  #30  
Old 02-09-2018, 01:20 PM
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Your out in Vero Beach? That's about an hour and half from me, (Lake Wales)
Yes I am, ever come over to the east coast? Iíve heard there is a tractor club over there in lake wales area. Called the Florida Flywheelers or something?
  #31  
Old 02-09-2018, 01:30 PM
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Yeah, the Florida Flywheelers is an antique engine show. The next event is the end of the month, 21st - 24th Feb:

http://www.floridaflywheelers.org/

They have a lot of steam powered engines....

Hmmm maybe I should plan a steam powered go kart for next year!
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  #32  
Old 02-09-2018, 01:51 PM
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Hello everyone,
Sorry it's been a few days. I've been busy with school and haven't had time to work on the Tecumseh 2 stroke engine. I finished up the manifold today, and everything is going to work out after all. Here are some pictures
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IMG_5233.jpg   IMG_5235.jpg  

IMG_5240.jpg  
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  #33  
Old 02-09-2018, 02:07 PM
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Here is where I'll really need some advice. I don't know enough about governors, and this engine is governed. I know WHAT they do, but am still quite foggy as to HOW they work.

So, because the carb is now rotated (see previous post), I cannot connect the governor arm (in the pictures below) to the throttle on the carb. My question is can I pin the governor open/ set the governor at the maximum speed it will allow (3600, I believe), and still be able to rev the engine?
Or does the governor arm have to move when the throttle on the carb moves when you rev the engine?

I've removed plenty of governors from clones and Honda's (the little plastic pinion gear thingy) and I understand the dangers of doing so, but this one is totally different looking. I can see it thru the intake port in the side of the engine. It appears to be ON the crankshaft... anyone have experience with something like this ? I cannot find any videos of how to remove something like it on YouTube.

Of course, removing the governor altogether would make an underpowered engine come alive and a higher top speed. I just don't have experience with splitting the case on these and am afraid to remove it and risk me not being able to properly put it back together. I'd rather not mess up a perfectly good engine. Thanks for all help
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  #34  
Old 02-10-2018, 10:16 AM
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Default Lack of gasket? What is this ?

I ended up jumping ahead before I got a response regarding the governor

The governor is removed, and I'm gonna start reassembly today. When I took the bottom half of the engine off, there was no gasket, seal, etc. there was just this amber colored very very thin film. What do you call this so I know what to go buy?
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2018, 11:35 AM
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Clean the two surfaces real good and apply Loctite 515.
  #36  
Old 02-11-2018, 11:02 AM
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Clean the two surfaces real good and apply Loctite 515.
Where can I get that?
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
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Where can I get that?
You should be able to find some locally where you live as it is common.
It is made exactly for machined surfaces and gasoline will not degrade it. There is always some on eBay you don't need a large tube of it to seal your crankcase halves. Call around to automotive parts stores or machinery shops in your location. Do not use RTV silicone sealant as gasoline eats it up. There is another product called Honda Bond that will work too if you can find it in your location.
  #38  
Old 02-12-2018, 04:49 AM
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Honda Bond:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sop...sacat=0&_oac=1

https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-Hig.../dp/B006YTTV4W

Loctite 515

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38655.../dp/B0002KKTTA

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...e+515&_sacat=0
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  #39  
Old 02-12-2018, 06:07 AM
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Do not use the Honda Bond HT as it is just glorified RTV silicone on your crankcase halves.
You can use the plain Honda Bond.
Yama Bond is the same thing as Honda Bond.
  #40  
Old 02-13-2018, 02:31 PM
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Can I use Permatex 518? It's way cheaper than picture 515...
Thanks
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