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  #21  
Old 10-20-2019, 03:29 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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I decided I could do without the through hole Gland, through the mirror mount... It would be cleaner... but I cant really find anything right now...Ill wait I guess...

In the mean time... I found an easier rout, that is, through the fender gap of the door...
No holes to drill... It seals by the door gasket, and routs inside nicely...
Im still working out the side vents in the defrost, but the top works like it should. So for now Ill leave out the vent deflectors and leave it as is...
I Soldered the connections( give a lower profile for shrink) and then shrinked individually and over the joint as a whole....I then found some long length shrink tube, and sleeved/Shrinked it over the joint to seal the outside, and along the length leaving a few inches for the power-in connections. I didnt have much for any other sleeving material... so that will do for now... Should be water resistant for a good while...
Powered up and it worked... Looks good too.... Have to wait for a darker time and Ill test in the darker road or wait till I go to work in the morning.... Either way.. Im happier...
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2019, 07:56 PM
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exposed wires are prone to be cut by idiots,
uv-rot by sunlight,
or internally rust by rain and frost (do not underestimate capillary effects)
Sooo.. for a brief period of time, sure..
for a permanent solution, I'd vote for "Nope!"

'sid
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Old 10-20-2019, 10:22 PM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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Fair enough....
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:56 AM
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But that had me thinking..
is there enough wire to take the long 'manufacturer' route?
that is
mirror into the door, down the inside to just below the upper hinge, through the tunnel, into the chassis and up to the dash board again?

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Old 10-21-2019, 08:19 AM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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It isnt an electric adjustable mirror. So the outer bucket just contains the mirror support, the bracket mount is solid, an no way into the door/cab...
I did think of that aswell... hide the wire along the edge of the mirror and into inside... but thats when it came down to drilling into the mirror mount as there is a clean passthrough into the cab.
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  #26  
Old 10-21-2019, 09:34 AM
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IIRC that type of mirror is connected to the door with (3) bolts (from the inside)
& the door itself should have a hole for the wires for power/heated mirrors (even if not equipped with that feature/option)

I think what Sid is suggestin' is to drill a small hole (just big enough for the wire) into/thru the (triangular shaped) mirror mounting/housing
...then, run the wire thru/inside of the door etc.

Which would make for a safe'er, more protected & a cleaner look

Short, sweet & to the point
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:47 AM
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yeah essentially.. a small hole for the wire to get into the plastic mirror housing

I thougt it had a lever to adjust the mirror from the inside..
so there's still a passthrough there ..

and tbh I was expecting electric windows (so there'd be a tunnel to the door)
at least there should be plastic caps where the tunnel would be between door and chassis..

*shrugs*

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  #28  
Old 10-21-2019, 11:52 AM
mckutzy mckutzy is offline
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The tunnel exists in the door frame... Behind the mirror mount...and a trim cap inside..
The pathfinder d22 typically has adjustable from inside mirrors, electric or lever steer... The same doors of the same family...
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  #29  
Old 01-28-2020, 02:54 PM
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Default Round 2... Ding ding ding.... Fight......

Well... I finally got all my crap together and got the ditch light onto the "new" truck...
After the dumb road rager kill my last D21 a few months ago, I managed to get another d21 with about half the amount miles(KM's actually), an earlier model, 1989. Same color, long box, unfortunately no bucket seats, but I might get some later on... The bench is kinda growing on me, but I really liked the console armrest I made for the first truck, and have another ammo can for that aswell.

I did get a few thing off of the truck before the insurance company took it... I got my light that I made the mount for on the mirror above...

I made a new bracket exactly the same using the same template I made earlier. Mounted up the same way.
I didnt have a side post battery this time, so I couldnt use the battery mount fuse block like before. So I used a fuse tap till I get a better fuse block setup..

This time, Im just going for the one light on the right side(I had wired up for both sides on the other, but didnt get it mounted cause I didnt need it so much, but still have that mount from previous should I need).

Ran a power and a remote ground for the light and another for the lighted switch. Linked up with the light in same fashion through the side vent hole. Tucked and zapped to keep tidy and away.

I also fixed the power socket for the cig adapter. I guess the PO or down the line someone had cut that off the power from the plug and left it hanging, using that for the radio power instead.

Having a bunch of experience with fitzing around with the radio and dash in the last year, I recognized instantly what the plug exactly was for when I removed a lower molding piece...
I had to fix the terminal with a new piece of wire, as it was cut off short. I unfurled the stub, re-soldered crimped and shrinked to reuse the terminal as it was an automotive variant... Not a common from the parts store.
Got it all buttoned up.... Radio works, my fans work, powered from the cig power port, and my new ditch light.... I have to wait till later for the night test, but all looks good..
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  #30  
Old 01-28-2020, 05:15 PM
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ka 24 hardbody. beast of a truck.
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  #31  
Old 01-28-2020, 05:36 PM
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My last was a ka24...

This is a z24i. It has a fuel injection carburetor and twin spark ignition..
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