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Old 03-10-2020, 03:51 PM
Kacper Kacper is offline
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Default Honda GX270 project

Hello,

I am brand new to this forum and in general to go kart bulding. I did a bit of engineering and work on cars and know how an engine, clutches, brakes ect. work but dont know how to make them compatible with each other I'm planning to build a Go Kart type thing (with normal wheels and a cage not a track kart) from a Honda GX270 engine that is almost brand new from a generator. Can someone give me some guidance on what to use in terms of clutches and gear reductions and explain how they are supposed to work. I'm also not very well off so a cheap but effective option would be appreciated. Any other tips are also welcome.
Thanks to all who respond in advance.

-Kacper
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Old 03-10-2020, 05:05 PM
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Hello and welcome...
Typically the motor from a geny is going to have a tapered shaft.. That will pose problems to mounting a TC or a clutch...They require a straight keyed shaft...
With that being said, you might need to buy a new crankshaft or get a new motor...
Depending on your location it might be easier to go buy another motor...
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Old 03-10-2020, 10:00 PM
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Welcome..
as mcKutzy said.. you might need a new crankshaft (or maybe engine)

what do you mean by "normal wheels"
what's normal to you?
that is important to get an idea of the required gear ratio (weight and wheelsize are needed)

'sid
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:24 AM
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Hello all,

By normal wheels i mean rubberised ride on lawn mower type wheels. I currently dont have any specifics in mind so i cant give you any specifica but the weight with rider is probably going to be around 120kg. Also any ideas about how much a new crankshaft will cost. I realy have not much money at all so maybe i could weld the input of the centrifugal to the original shaft or try and turn it on a lathe if i can ask to use it at work and cut the notch into it? Or il just put the project aside and sell the engine.
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Old 03-12-2020, 07:44 PM
TheSean TheSean is offline
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My builds have been with a GX270 clone lifan engine, this is my advice and experience.

I was told early in the piece by Paul at Cut Price Racing (Brisbane, we're in Australia) that I'm better off going a 200cc engine as that's the far more common one so everything is far cheaper. He's 100% right, I reckon I could have ditched that engine and gone a 200cc done the same mods and still be ahead even after buying the new engine.

Where am I going with this, the 270cc isn't worth the cost for the extra size, even if you have one. It's also a phyically heavier and chonky boi so fitment gets to be an issue. If the tapered shaft issue is the one you encounter, get out of the 270cc at that point.

However, if you want to stick with a 270, hit up NR Racing if you're in the US, or Cut Price Racing if you're in Australia for parts. But either way, be prepared to pay more.
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Old 03-13-2020, 07:52 AM
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Riding mower wheels, might work, but they certainly need precision bearings.
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Old 03-16-2020, 01:37 PM
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Good news.

I have gotten the engine to my house and it turns out that in fact it is a honda GX200 i was dissapointed however it seems that its a good thing from what some of you were saying. Also ive managed to book a mill and a lathe and am making an adapter that will be mig welded then balanced onto the tapered shaft. Il then use a torque converter.

Thanks to all who responded to my thread i realy appreciate it.
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Old 03-16-2020, 01:55 PM
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Cool! There are lots of GX200 mod parts out there!

Good luck making that adapter!
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Old 03-16-2020, 02:09 PM
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What part are you welding and to where???
IF you managed to make the adapter well enough to work out.. tell us what is the taper or at least if you can show us a drawing....
We often get this comment and Alot of us would like to expand our options to get things working...
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:42 PM
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hmm..

since that adapter doesn't fit through the bearing,
and is welded I'm not too much of a fan of the welding idea..
mounting the crankcase cover will be a PITA then.

I hope you are not attempting to weld it to the shaft when the shaft is still installed..
since in that case you essentially make your gx200 unserviceable.

and considering that you can have an aftermarket crankshaft for ~30 bucks (40 at worst)
I see no reason for a weld on adapter tbh ...

A slip on adapter however would be nice..
taper locks are incredibly solid, soo IMHO locking it with a bolt/nut should serve you much better;
plus it'll remain removable for repairs.

'sid
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:15 PM
TheSean TheSean is offline
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Yer, I was thinking the same, a replacement aftermarket crankshaft would be a much better idea than a welding an adapter
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:10 AM
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Hello everyone,

I have manufactured the adapter however i did in in a different wan i originally planned. I took the part that attached onto the tapered shaft for the generator and used a press to remove the shaft from the other copper parts. I then cut it down and turned it on a lathe to the correct dimensions and then cut a notch in on a mill for the screw to go into. The taper inside will therefore not have to be made by me. i then painted it with anthracite so that there wont be any corrosion from the damp air of where i live until i get enough money to buy a torque converter. The adapter just slips on and is then affirmed by the original bold nut that was on the generator. It was just significantly cut down and re tapped on the bolt side. For people asking about the taper just measure the shaft of your engine. if you don't have an engine then contact me and il send a RSDOC file for you to see the sizes on since it cant be attached to this forum. RSDOC is for design spark mechanical . Free cad software.


IMPORTANT-
If anyone is trying to do this then pay close attention to the threads. The shaft has different threads that are much more fine than standard M8 so make sure you cut the rod that goes into the shaft on the bolt side so you keep the fine thread.

Also i started taking apart as much of the HONDA GX 200 engine as i could to learn how it works and i have a few questions.

I see that there is an arm that moves when the RPM goes up and down. It is connected to the carburettor and a I presume its moved by some clutch type thing on the inside of the crankcase that expands when RPM goes up?

It seems that the amount of fuel that is put into the combustion chamber is regulated purely by how fast the piston moves (sucks fuel in when piston goes down) and that all of the "throttle" adjustments are done by limiting amount of air that can enter?

Cleaned carburettor and everything i unscrewed.

Also took off the cap with VHZ on it and saw the valves. Are the springs supposed to be yellow or did someone install aftermarket ones for some off reason?

Once again thanks too all that are writing in this thread




p.s sorry for my English
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
I see that there is an arm that moves when the RPM goes up and down. It is connected to the carburettor and a I presume its moved by some clutch type thing on the inside of the crankcase that expands when RPM goes up?
think you are thinking of the guv arm.
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