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  #21  
Old 07-01-2019, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy H View Post
Mrmonk, I'm sure you'll get everything sorted.

Here's a couple (crappy, sorry) pics for Wes. These are new DynoCams cl4's hemi/clone cams. One of em had been ground down a bit, other one hasn't. Same part #. I haven't done anything to them.

Buhaha, good luck getting any sleep this week.
I'll sleep just fine knowing my parts don't look like they been gnawed on by a rat...that looks like crap.

You're a good salesmen, thanks for the pics bruh!

Tell those guys they won't be seeing any of my money

Have a great one, thanks again for the heads up!

Wes
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:01 PM
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I havent read through all of the posts here but here is my two cents on the matter, having built a few engines.

Clearance is a big deal, and lots of people like to be able to just drop a cam in there and hope it works out. The crank can flex and things expand and whatnot, so you have to be able to CHECK clearances on the following even before starting the engine

piston to head
piston to valve
rod to block (both bore and dipper)
lifter to block
cam to rod
cam to crank

and, wait for it, heres a new one to me.

compression release to rod and crank. Fun fact, did you know that the compression release moves and if you check clearance without it moving all the way that it is supposed to, the crankshaft might hit it and break it? Ask me how i know. ok dont, but you get the idea.

Id say most people cant or dont check clearances, and they end up breaking something. Even with a mild cam, you dont have as many clearance issues as you would have if you stroked the engine, you still get issues that you have to address. A cut up sidecover for $15 is better than an engine that wears and breaks something (sometimes bends push rods and breaks other stuff from the slap it together and "SEND IT" guys).
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  #23  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:52 PM
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I know that there is a minimum clearance between the rod and camshaft...but I have never seen it published for these small engines. It was checked by rotating engine and engine not rotating. No further check can be performed without grinding on cam to have a measurable clearance.

Dipper clearance...not measured. What is the spec?
PtH checked
Ptv checked
Lifters-stock unmodified
Pushrod-stock with stock rockers
Compression release - no clue how to check that.
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  #24  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:56 PM
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I’d call dynocams first. It’s their camshaft. Ask for measurement specs for the area in question (where the rod is hitting).
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:02 PM
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Dynocams already contacted me. I sent a reply and am waiting for the response. Basically they said big variations in camshaft blanks. The cam card indicates the possibility of grinding (cam card does not indicate this) and that I should grind the cam.
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  #26  
Old 07-01-2019, 01:19 PM
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Just got off the phone with NR. The gentleman said his response is “grind it” but wants another opinion from his engine guy before I do.

If this is my option then so be it, but I still believe that this step should be done at the manufacturer (DynoCams) before sending out to distributors. Perhaps I expect to much. I’ll prepare my dremel
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:00 PM
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I recently read on a FB group that Russel no longer owns/runs NR racing. I’m not sure this is true. He was the only person I ever spoke to when I dealt with NR and since now they have at least two people there, it seems like it might be true. I agree there should be more quality control from dynocams. Such a mild cam should be drop in. A drop in cam, IMO, is a big selling point for inexperienced people beginning to modify these engines.

---------- Post added at 02:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:56 PM ----------

I’d call ARC too. Ask for Jody. See if he recommends grinding the cam, the rod, or a little off each.
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmonk7663 View Post
...Iíll prepare my dremel

Let me know how your Dremel works. I use an air die grinder (from HF) for things like that; takes minutes instead of years....
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2019, 02:53 PM
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I have a die grinder but I am worried about space. Since it’s right in between the lobes I don’t know how I’m gonna do this successfully since using a barrel type grinding stone or sanding barrel will not get to the outside edges. The grind will not be uniform across. And I’m worried about hitting the lobes. .
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:57 PM
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If I was gonna remove metal I'd not remove any from the rod. Just the cam. And try to blend it in smooth and not let it look like rats been gnawing on it. Polish it out so it has no jagged edges on the radius anywhere. A jagged edge will leave behind a place for a stress fracture to form later
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  #31  
Old 07-01-2019, 03:00 PM
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Rod is not going to be touched that I can assure you. We are in total agreeable on that.
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  #32  
Old 07-01-2019, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmonk7663 View Post
I have a die grinder but I am worried about space. Since itís right in between the lobes I donít know how Iím gonna do this successfully since using a barrel type grinding stone or sanding barrel will not get to the outside edges. The grind will not be uniform across. And Iím worried about hitting the lobes. .
Maybe a cheap rat tail file and some sandpaper or one of these...

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Been in the back seat of my truck for I don't know how long... I'll use it eventually.
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Old 07-01-2019, 03:08 PM
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Have the file and sandpaper. I’ll look at that tool at work in an hour. I’m a supervisor at HF haha
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  #34  
Old 07-01-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmonk7663 View Post
Have the file and sandpaper. Iíll look at that tool at work in an hour. Iím a supervisor at HF haha
Bahahahahahahaha you can probably get a discount then! It will use Dremel size bits...use your imagination...you could've gotten a keystart 420 for that! Lol but that would've been kinda big!
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Old 07-01-2019, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmonk7663 View Post
I know that there is a minimum clearance between the rod and camshaft...but I have never seen it published for these small engines. It was checked by rotating engine and engine not rotating. No further check can be performed without grinding on cam to have a measurable clearance.

Dipper clearance...not measured. What is the spec?
PtH checked
Ptv checked
Lifters-stock unmodified
Pushrod-stock with stock rockers
Compression release - no clue how to check that.
you are usually good with 20-50 thousandths on the shortblock, not sure about head/piston.

As far as lifters go, it doesnt matter if they are stock. They go as high as the cam lobe will push them, and sometimes that means jamming them into the block. you need a cut up side cover for that, but all you do is rotate to the top of each cam lobe and while you are at the highest lift position stick a feeler gauge in there or just grab em and lift up higher to see if they go higher.

compression release is also checked with the cam in place on a cut up side cover. you can move the compression releast with you fingers as it has about a 90 degree pivot. mine was hitting the meaty part of the crankshaft. keep in mind that with some blocks the cam cam move around left to right so it will not hit if pushed to the flywheel side, but will hit if pushed to the pto side of the engine. That was my issue.
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  #36  
Old 07-01-2019, 03:56 PM
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I’ll make some checks tonight. And yes discounts on everything
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  #37  
Old 07-01-2019, 04:02 PM
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Iíll make some checks tonight. And yes discounts on everything
Lol you suck!!!!
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  #38  
Old 07-01-2019, 04:27 PM
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With the mod 2 cam this is typically the cam hitting the crank. I thought that was a very common problem. Iíve had to grind some crank off every time I instal the mod 2. Are you absolutely positive the rod is making contact and not a part of the cam hitting the crank? Itís very difficult to see and if you donít have a modified side cover on it you may not notice the actual clearance issue. If your cam is wollering around due to having no side cover on you may not even be able to determine where the actual problem is. All I know is you should have to grind some off the crank to instal the mod 2. May not be so for all but itís been that way for me every time.
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  #39  
Old 07-01-2019, 05:23 PM
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The crank issue is on the hemi engines. Not the non hemi. I am 100 percent positive it is the rod contacting the cam. It doesn’t matter if side cover is on, off, endolay changed...I’ve done it all. The rod hits the cam. It clears the crank just fine.
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  #40  
Old 07-01-2019, 05:35 PM
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Ok then. I missed the non hemi detail. My bad.
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