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#41
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Y'know... For your first build, that turned out really nice! Good job! Just thinking out loud here- You extended the wheelbase, AND widened it? Did you widen the front track width, or just the frame? The reason I ask, is that extending the wheelbase will throw the Ackermann out a bit, BUT- Widening the frontend will actually bring it closer again! By doing both, (if you did), you will have negated some of the Ackermann loss caused by not readjusting the steering arm angles to compensate for the wheelbase increase!
__________________
The Manual- "Just the manufacturer's opinion of how to put this together."- Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!- Me! Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat... |
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#42
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I only widened the frame and did not touch the track. But I think the track it is a little wider at the front than the plans if I would have follwed them to the letter, because of the heim joints but only about an inch or two. If I would have done some research before I started the frame I might have only gone 8 to 10 inches in length instead of the 12 I went. I didn't know what I didn't know. At a later time I might move the tie rod connections at the spindles but for now I'll keep it the way it is. It handles just fine but it does have a big turning radius.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jwheels14 For This Useful Post: | ||
Knifemaker (03-06-2013) | ||
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#43
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For the sake of other people reading this thread later. What else would you do different besides the tierods if you were starting over again?
I love asking this question at end of builds.
__________________
Attention Criminals!! This is a defense free crime zone. All law-abiding citizens have been disarmed for your convenience. |
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#44
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Well to start with I would stretch the frame only 8 inches, more caster, widen the front suspension block to at least 6 inches, better shocks and lighter seat.
Well it sounds like I have my next project already. Don't get me wrong I like the way it turned out and the more riding I do I might change my mind on all of that too. The shocks and the seat I used was because of money issues not from lack knowledge like the frame was. |
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#45
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Well I did some work on the kart today just a few tweaks.
I used some string to see how close to the correct ackerman it is, it turned out not to bad. Needs to come in and forward just a touch, I kow this close to the spindle that a little goes a long way. pics 1&2 I moved the tie rod connecting points forward about an inch and in just a little and that shortened the turning radius a lot. pics 3&4 Pics 5&6 are of the swing arm conection to the frame just to show the hiem joints I used there. The other two pics are of the linkages for the throttle and brake. I also moved the caster as far as I could without cutting anything off, you can see in pic 4 the washers that are in the shock mounts that I used for shims. Oh and all of the shock mounts are homemade I was to cheap to buy 18 of them at 5 bucks each. |
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#46
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NICE WORK on all the final tweaking!!!!!!! So helpful.
__________________
"Everything in Moderation" ... including moderation. |
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#47
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Nice Kart. I'ma about 3/4 finished with welding up an arachnid. I agree on the shock weldments, I accidentally bought 7 of them for 1/2" bolts and my shocks have 3/8" holes. I started making my own weldments. I didn't use bent steel strap, but I think on the next set of them I'll do that, which is what yours looks like.
I like the idea of widening the kart and I was thinking of doing a similar steering column support bar over the top as opposed to the the floor post that the plans call for. I took a play from arcachnid bros and lengthening mine. I was even planning on putting diamond plate on the floor ($$$$). With the dash, you can mount cool stuff like the starter switch from the motor, or a light switch, tach if you're taking the gov off, maybe a stereo? Not sure about that. I'm thinking of adding a light storage deck/rack, a bit like a rack on an ranchers ATV, over the engine that could be removable, to be used for hauling a little gear. Would be fun to make a couple more of these and take a multi-day tour in the woods or beach/dunes with others. Good job. I'll need to start my own thread and photos. |
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#48
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Sorry to bump this topic, but could you please post some pictures of your steering setup? Thanks in advance.
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#49
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Not bad at all, great design !
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#50
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looks great! i really like the suspension set up.
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#51
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Look what happened the first time I took out the kart this spring. It was an 1.25 solid aluminum, looks like I'm going to have to go with chromoly.
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#52
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Oh CRAP! How could that have happened? Dang! Really- I could have seen that happening outboard of the bearing, but inboard? I would have lost that bet...
__________________
The Manual- "Just the manufacturer's opinion of how to put this together."- Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor Put down the wrench, and come out with your hands up!- Me! Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat... |
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#53
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Ouch!! Had you drilled into the axle in any way? I wonder why it let go right there
__________________
Last Build: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11334 We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act but a habit-Aristotle |
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#54
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The only thing I did was extend the keyway but that was on the other side by the sprocket not the disc for the brake. I wasn't even hitting any bumps I just pulled out for the second trip of the day and all of a sudden it stopped and I heard the chain come off and no la go. I was able to push it back the 50 feet to the shed no problem. I haven't pulled the axle of yet so I'm not sure if there is something wrong with it or not. When I pull it off I'll take more picks and let you see what I see, maybe this weekend.
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#55
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Maybe it was just a defect in the metal at that point. These things happen, its just a bummer when they happen to you....
__________________
Last Build: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11334 We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act but a habit-Aristotle |
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#56
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I have seen this type of failure before. It would imply that the two bearings were not concentric (planar). This look to be self aligning bearings, but perhaps the bearing next to the brake is slighly cocked. So, for each revolution, the aluminum is bearing ever so slightly bent. So, this will stress the aluminum and fatique it quickly. It is basically like bending a coat hanger rapidly and causing it to break. The difference is, that aluminum fatiques quickly in this type of situation.
Regards, Russ |
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#57
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That makes sense, and I had to tweek the bearing mounts so it is quit possible thats what happened. I'll know more when I finally take it a part and look at it, bad weather has kept me inside.
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