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Old 11-27-2016, 08:49 PM
chris_ chris_ is offline
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Default Clutch issue, need help

I recently purchased a Manco Dingo with a 6hp Tecumseh engine for the family. There is a problem with the belt/drive clutch where it is constantly engaged. With the cart off the ground you can hit the break, and the engine will die as the belt stays in contact at any engine speed. I followed the post on cleaning the driver clutch. Everything inside the clutch looks good, and operates freely. I was looking at some of the other posts, and they talk about a brass bushing in the center of the driver clutch faces. My clutch doesn't have one, but based on my research the comet series 30 clutch with a one inch center doesn't have a brass bushing. Since I purchased this used with this clutch issue being a known issue I cant assume any of the items on the Kart are correct.

Specs:
Comet Series 30 clutch.
6inch driven clutch.
shaft to shaft center distance 6 7/8"
Belt is a Manco #5959 (3/4" width)

I was looking at buying a new belt, but am unsure what one to get. I was wondering if the 3/4 belt is the issue, and I should be running a 5/8 width belt. Any help would be great. I am including some pictures and maybe a video to show this..

YouTube video of the engine and clutch in action:
https://youtu.be/dOZTOnRmIkQ
Attached Thumbnails
image1.JPG   image2.JPG  

IMG_2230.JPG   IMG_2231.JPG  


Last edited by chris_; 11-27-2016 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Added a link to a youtube video
  #2  
Old 11-27-2016, 09:25 PM
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Welcome to the zoo.
Thanks for the pics and vid. It helps us alot.

There is a chart somewhere to reference belt size. I don't have that info.

But I do see you need to take the driven apart and polish the sheaves. It looks rusty. That will cause excessive belt wear.
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:23 PM
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Ask nicely and you shall receive sir..............

http://www.gokartsupply.com/mobile/tcbelts.htm
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:55 PM
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How are the rubber buttons on the driveN unit?

I could see if they are worn, the sheaves would be able to pull together and make the overall diameter larger, making the belt tight on the driver.

By the chart that was on the link Joe so kindly posted, it looks like you have the right belt.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:55 AM
steved steved is offline
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Are you missing the bronze bushing on the TC?

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Old 11-28-2016, 09:06 AM
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I agree with steved. On the driver clutch looks like the idle sleeve (whatever the correct name for it is) may be missing. It is like a round spacer that goes on the driver clutch for idle if I remember correctly.

-Dan
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:33 PM
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Look here for a parts diagram of your TC.
http://www.gokartsupply.com/asymapp.htm
If you are missing the bronze bushing, or it's bad, scroll down the page. They have them.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:44 PM
chris_ chris_ is offline
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Thanks for all the help so far.. As for the bushing.. I had looked on the gokartsupply.com site in the past, and based on that site is where I got the information for the first post that I don't think I am supposed to have a bushing. The note under the part claims no bushing is needed on the 1 inch bore.. Now in this case is the bore pertaining to the size of the engine shaft (see pic Blue lines) or the size of the sleeve (Red Lines) on the fixed clutch plate?
Attached Thumbnails
Bushing.GIF   clutch.GIF  

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Old 11-28-2016, 08:48 PM
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As for the driven clutch. Yes it is a little rusty, but it appears to work smooth, and the wear pads are in great shape.

Is there a way to tell if I should have a belt that is 3/4 or 5/8 thick?
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:08 PM
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Yes it does work smoothly and good to know about the buttons. Still clean it up. Better in the long run.

A thinner belt would slip a little more in that situation.

Can you adjust the J/S plate separately from the engine?
Bump them just a little closer together. Just a little..
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:23 PM
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the stock motor plate has zero adjustment between the driver and driven clutch. you can only slide the entire plate to adjust the chain tight.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:39 PM
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If it was me I'd polish the driven and see if that helped, then look into a bushing on the driver, ive read that some came with and some with out the bronze bushing. Then I'd slot the mounting plate to give a little slack. That's if the belt was good.

I'm sure someone will pipe up and have a better idea though.
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Old 11-28-2016, 10:06 PM
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Post a side shot with the belt and everything attached as in running condition. I need to see the way the belt looks from the direct side view.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:27 PM
RyanSeward3 RyanSeward3 is offline
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I have a 30 series torque converter almost identical to this one. The brass bushing allows the belt to slide without friction on the driver pulley when the engine is idling. Without it even when the clutch is not engaged the belt will grip.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:37 PM
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Thanks Ryan...now my 5 year old sister is upset you beat her to it.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordylightfoot View Post
Thanks Ryan...now my 5 year old sister is upset you beat her to it.

Well we guess your not so smart after all now huh ?


So still no side pic yet ? I need it to see the belt slack with engine off.
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Old 12-07-2016, 02:27 PM
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has anyone even asked if the drive clutch has garter springs on it yet?
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:53 PM
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Brass bushing.
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