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  #21  
Old 08-10-2019, 12:43 AM
Smerft85 Smerft85 is offline
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Originally Posted by gegcorp2012 View Post
Nice progress so far. Classic Briggs are cool and there are some motor guys that love the flathead.

I like how you used a flipped front axle to lower it. Cool idea that I have not seen before.

Are you planning to adjust the camber on the front wheels so the tread is flat to the ground ?

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I need to get some good tires on the front first but I do intend on fixing it, unless new tires correct it enough. I was thinking about taking the crank out of the extra 5hp flathead I have and using it in the 3hp I have to attempt a small stroker engine. Even if I'm forced to use a honda or clone to finish the build, it will have a flathead as a permanent solution, the little stroker may be fun if it works out. I'm hoping the front axle doesn't sit entirely too low, but I could shim the rear axle to level the frame a bit if needed, engine plate will go in last so I can easily make that adjustment if so.
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2019, 11:08 PM
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Added the hood and grill, with hand controls I may be able to drive it. I also may be changing the engine and sproket original idea, but won't get into that much unless it happens.
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  #23  
Old 08-14-2019, 11:37 PM
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Looks good....but I was just wondering where you are going to sit?
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2019, 08:06 AM
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Steering wheel is just sitting there. It probably won't have much in the way of a seat, much thicker than an inch or so and my legs won't fit, I already have to set my feet at an angle inside and can't move them, so hand controls will ensure the whole family can ride it. I hope I answered your question.
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2019, 12:25 PM
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Fun fact! Only tools I've used are a welder, grinder, and two 14mm wrenches! I have squares, tape measures ect but haven't touched them, I don't really include jackstands, they go under everything.

Anyone else have minimalistic tenancy with their build tools?
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  #26  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:28 AM
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Steering wheel is just sitting there. It probably won't have much in the way of a seat, much thicker than an inch or so and my legs won't fit, I already have to set my feet at an angle inside and can't move them, so hand controls will ensure the whole family can ride it. I hope I answered your question.
Thanks. It was the steering wheel taking up all the space that made me wonder how you would get into the barrow
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  #27  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:32 AM
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Thanks. It was the steering wheel taking up all the space that made me wonder how you would get into the barrow
I may mount the steering through the cowl area just to add an inch or two of space inside, it's extreemely tight, but I can squeeze into it, kinda like a st. Bernard going in a cat door...
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  #28  
Old 08-22-2019, 09:46 PM
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Slight change of plans, I have stripped down the shaller cart and claimed anything useful. I had used the engine from it to put my dingo on the trail, but the rest of that cart needs work. So, until I can get everything I need to truly finish the dingo, I'm robbing the gx270, and the sprocket hub to use for this build.

The shaller had a wet clutch set-up and was belt driven to the axle with twin drum brakes, one wheel peel. I believe I've figured out a way to utilize the belt drive, wet clutch and a single drum brake, along with the de-governed gx270.

I know I'm going to catch a little grief after expressing how bad I wanted a flathead on it, but this allows me to have roughly $35 out of pocket on the entire build, the temptation is too strong, plus it will get me motivated to rebuild the gx390 for the dingo, it will work itself out.
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  #29  
Old 08-22-2019, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Smerft85 View Post
...I know I'm going to catch a little grief after expressing how bad I wanted a flathead on it, but this allows me to have roughly $35 out of pocket on the entire build....
I'm surprised you're worried about some kind of backlash.

Only in these recent 1-1.5 years has there been a reemergence of a small, vocal, obsessed
flathead faction.

We have some fresh blood here--several young dudes here who are strangely unobsessed with the clones. That's rather unusual.
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2019, 10:47 PM
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I definitely prefer the sound of the flatheads, reminds me of mowing the church lawn when I was a kid, I grew up thinking a smoker was a briggs! I'm still not straying away from the general - use what I have- mentality, just making the job quicker and way cheaper.

I think I may chop the ends off the front axle and build Springer spindles to weld back to the old mower axle, it should get me a hair more clearance, and fit the look a little better too, just gotta dig for the right steel, probably have some springs and such laying around too, I'd bet it will improve the steering at the same time, eliminating something to come back to later on.
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  #31  
Old 08-30-2019, 09:32 PM
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Cutting the keyway in the rear axle, and starting to get the drive and brake set up all done, I have a small drum brake that fits inside that sprocket hub, still have minimal cash involved in this build and hoping to get it on the road in the next week or two!
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  #32  
Old 09-02-2019, 08:36 AM
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I got the engine mocked up with the wet clutch, building the bracket for the drum brake seems.... a bit tight. With a live axle would it be a bad idea to mount the sprocket hub on the outside of the frame?
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  #33  
Old 09-02-2019, 09:16 AM
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Outside should be fine as long as it's close to the frame rails.
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  #34  
Old 09-02-2019, 01:22 PM
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I think that's the route I'll have to take, probably better than trying to find a longer belt that will work, was hoping to keep it inside the rails, but I'm at least 1/2" too narrow in the frame.
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  #35  
Old 09-02-2019, 10:53 PM
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*cough*

that flimsy axle will not hold for very long anyways, so sure add just another force to the outside of the bearing, doesn't matter if it fails on day four or five

No really, all sarcasm aside...
you need a beefier axle, and/or a MUCH shorter distance between the wheel hubs and the supporting bearings.. or a combination of the two.
Otherwise your axle will surely not going to stay straight for very long (a heavy bmp in the road, a "hitchhiking" friend or whatnot.

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  #36  
Old 09-03-2019, 01:27 AM
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Attachment 111520

Cutting the keyway in the rear axle, and starting to get the drive and brake set up all done, I have a small drum brake that fits inside that sprocket hub, still have minimal cash involved in this build and hoping to get it on the road in the next week or two!
Ummm.....that keyway doesn't look straight. Is it going to work?
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2019, 06:12 AM
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Ummm.....that keyway doesn't look straight. Is it going to work?
It got a little off, but it should work ok. I thought it would be easy to cut but that grinder jumps around sometimes, and I was very sleep deprived at the time, I'll have to weld the sleeve adapter for the sprocket hub along with the key to the axle, but where it goes thru the bearings and wheels everything tightens up nicely.
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  #38  
Old 09-03-2019, 08:07 PM
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Quick question, is there a centrifugal clutch out there that will hang with a 9 horse non governed? That would afford me the needed space to keep the sprocket between the frame rails and ditch the wet clutch. Thanks in advance!
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  #39  
Old 09-04-2019, 07:16 AM
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What's the crankshaft diameter?
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  #40  
Old 09-04-2019, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Smerft85 View Post
Quick question, is there a centrifugal clutch out there that will hang with a 9 horse non governed? That would afford me the needed space to keep the sprocket between the frame rails and ditch the wet clutch. Thanks in advance!
have you removed the wetclutch yet?

chances are it's a splined shaft
appears to be a concession kart setup with wet clutch and belt drive;
so chances are it's a true Honda and they really like splined shafts on their wet clutches.
And the answer would be
no, you cannot install a cent clutch on a splined shaft.

that's why I'm asking if you'd checked already.


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