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Old 11-13-2016, 08:22 PM
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Default 2017 - Hero (Zero Turn Go Kart)

This kart will run on dual 36V 500W DC motors.

NO steering wheel, handle bars or rudder of any kind.

Individual (left & right) hand controls for steering, acceleration & braking.

Chancer is worried that the battery's for this cart are gonna be heavy.

So lets try to mitigate that by putting them right behind but, really close to our imaginary rear axle.

I'm thinkin, the rear wheels should be right next to the seat with the battery's in a row right behind the seat.

...to kinda off set / balance the weight of the driver

So, lets start with the battery box.

I am gonna use the HF Universal Solar 12V 35 Amp Hour battery like I used on El Dingo.

They are 5 1/8" x 7 5/8"

If we run (3) sideways, we will need a 15 1/2" wide by 7 5/8" long battery box probably ~3 1/2" deep with ~1" tabs for mounting.

Attached Thumbnails
SAM_1961.jpg   SAM_1967.jpg  

SAM_1979.jpg   SAM_1986.jpg  

SAM_1984.jpg  

Last edited by Functional Artist; 11-15-2016 at 08:55 PM. Reason: add video
  #2  
Old 11-13-2016, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
Chancer is worried that the battery's for this cart are gonna be heavy.
He's not wrong; 20lb per battery x6=120lbs, that's around the weight of some small karts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Functional Artist View Post
So lets try to mitigate that by putting them right behind but, really close to our imaginary rear axle.
No, that much weight you want between the axles; I realise there's little to no steering geometry involved but, you do want the front wheels on the ground, don't you?

My advice is run the batteries along the side rails...
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2016, 08:53 PM
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You'll be fine. I was commenting cause you said another Build idea was too heavy.
I found them equally heavy thats all
Hey is that the HF Break? I have it too.
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Old 11-13-2016, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzFab View Post
He's not wrong; 20lb per battery x6=120lbs, that's around the weight of some small karts



No, that much weight you want between the axles; I realise there's little to no steering geometry involved but, you do want the front wheels on the ground, don't you?

My advice is run the batteries along the side rails...
The plan for this kart is to run both motors/controllers off (1) 36V battery pack.

Doing so will reduce overall run time but, your right 120 lbs is too much, heck 60 lbs of bat pack is still a lot for a small kart.

Do I want the front wheels on the ground? Hmmmmm.

Answer: Maybe &/or sometimes

Isn't that the GOAL of half of the guys on this forum.

Running the batteries along the side rails has been done.

Kinda Led Sledish, I'm goin more for light & nimble

I'm thinkin of settin it up kinda like I did on Desteny's Kart, just move the rear wheels forward to assist steering.
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2016, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chancer View Post
You'll be fine. I was commenting cause you said another Build idea was too heavy.
I found them equally heavy thats all
Hey is that the HF Break? I have it too.
Oh, Ya!

I was just addressing your concern in the build thread as a way to explain battery placement.

I figured the other idea (hydraulics) was too heavy for a kart cause' besides a motor it would need a couple of hydraulic pumps, control valves, hoses & even a reservoir for the fluid. (all really heavy)

Yup! HF is my friend!

Your friend! Everybody's friend!

No matter what RANDY says!

It's the artist NOT the brush.
  #6  
Old 11-13-2016, 11:12 PM
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Thas right!
"it is The Shotty Craftsman that blames his tools"~Poboy
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:46 AM
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Default Hero

Now that we have the battery box, we can build off of that.

The bat pack we are using is like 60 lbs. - 70 lbs., so we want that well supported.

The battery box is designed to be mounted between the frame rails & rest on the 1" flanges.

The average driver would be ~ 150 lbs.

So, if the bat pack is right behind the rear axle & the driver just in front, I'm thinkin' the weights should help off set each other but, still be a bit heavier in the front.

Kinda like the wheel barrow concept.
  #8  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:34 AM
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Default Hero

To help keep build time & costs down I am gonna try & incorporate a lot of existing technology, part's & structure in this build.

Not redesigning the wheel here, just creatively modifying & re-purposing components.

I have a couple of mostly complete Chinese electric scooters I can use for this project. (both have wiring issues)

I am gonna try to use most of the actual frames.

They nicely hold the rear wheel, motor mount, motor, controller, small battery's (but, were not goin' that direction) & could be used for arm rests & mounts for the hand controls.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_1919.jpg   SAM_1926.jpg  

SAM_1922.jpg   SAM_1958.jpg  

SAM_1959.jpg  
  #9  
Old 11-14-2016, 07:13 PM
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That reminds me....
Has anyone here ever tried to ride 2 scooters at once?
One foot on each. Not easy to do.
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  #10  
Old 11-14-2016, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chancer View Post
That reminds me....
Has anyone here ever tried to ride 2 scooters at once?
One foot on each. Not easy to do.
Not me!

Sounds like you might have some experience though.

Got pics?

...or scars?

We wanna see this!
  #11  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:01 PM
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Default Hero

Did some "very rough sketch" conceptual drawings for our Hero kart.

Speaking of heroe's, I was thinking that if this concept works out it could be useful to help our veterans with leg issues to rejoin the fun.

...and handicapped kids too. that would never be able to control a standard kart.

I think that would be very Kool!

First pic, I think the axle is too far back & the frame seems too long for our steering concept.

Second pic, is closer to where we are going with this. (doesn't show battery pack behind seat)
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_1951.jpg   SAM_1950.jpg  

  #12  
Old 11-15-2016, 08:43 AM
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Default Hero

If our battery box is 15 1/2" that will be the inside dimensions of the rear section of our frame.

A nice snug fit will provide the support needed for our battery pack.

As for wheelbase, Desteny's kart has a 43" wb which seems kinda long for this type of steering concept.

The scooter frame's were using have a 33 1/2" wb which seems kinda short.

I'm thinkin' maybe a 36" or 38" wb?

The width in the rear is, hmmmmm.

Bat box is 15 1/2", plus two frame rails @ 7/8" & the scooter frames are 3 1/2" from edge to center of the wheel.

So... 15 1/2" + 1 3/4" (7/8" x 2) + 7" ( 3 1/2" x 2) = 24 1/4"

So... if the width (track) is 24 1/4" & length (wheelbase) is 38"

I 'm thinkin' that would be a ~2:3 ratio or ~1/3 longer than wide.

To double check, (to see if on paper works in the real world) I sat down between the scooter frames with a tape measure.

Still seems kinda short.

40" looks a little better.

Ya, lets roll with that.
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2016, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chancer View Post
Thas right!
"it is The Shotty Craftsman that blames his tools"~Poboy
How many craftsmen buy the cheapest tools available? They can't afford to.

I do buy some things from harbor freight. Heck I get a free tarp almost every week.

The larger wire machine, looks decent and the stick/tig inverter is nifty. Heard good things about their plasma cutters.

The ac flux cored machine has its place. I'm not such a jerk that I'll pick on innocent bystanders. However there are alot of pics posted on this forum that clearly demonstrate that the weldor responsible, if not the welder, should not weld on kart frame.

Function Artist.
I must say you make some cool stuff. I imagine you can take a torch and and the dreaded coat hangar wire and do an admirable job.
  #14  
Old 11-15-2016, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy H View Post
How many craftsmen buy the cheapest tools available? They can't afford to.

I do buy some things from harbor freight. Heck I get a free tarp almost every week.

The larger wire machine, looks decent and the stick/tig inverter is nifty. Heard good things about their plasma cutters.

The ac flux cored machine has its place. I'm not such a jerk that I'll pick on innocent bystanders. However there are alot of pics posted on this forum that clearly demonstrate that the weldor responsible, if not the welder, should not weld on kart frame.

Function Artist.
I must say you make some cool stuff. I imagine you can take a torch and and the dreaded coat hangar wire and do an admirable job.
Thank you, Thank you very much!

As for HF, There are many reasons to buy cheaper tools.

Affordability, Not sure if this will be a long term activity, or in my case...

My shop has been broken into & cleaned out several times.

Little , that's why there's green paint all over my tool boxes in some of my pics.

After I secured all doors & windows, the little started coming through the roof.

The whole place is alarmed now but, still leary.

As for the craftsmen, Lots of folks have their "fish stories", just gotta use common sense.

Practice makes perfect or at least well practiced.

That's what DIY is all about, tinkering around with stuff.

At least their trying! doing! creating! & sharing.

This place is like guys hangin' out in the garage tinkerin' & shootin the

Analyze, Advise maybe even needle a bit but, Please don't criticize!

You sound like a smart guy, some folks just have a hard way of showing it.

As for the torch idea: Ya, probably if I put my mind to it!

Last edited by Functional Artist; 11-15-2016 at 10:22 AM. Reason: add info
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2016, 08:52 PM
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Default Hero

Two main rules I always keep in mind when designing a kart are...

1. Must have a roll bar. ( I flipped a kart once. It was NOT fun!)

2. The seat bottom should not be higher than the rear axle. (to help keep center of gravity low)

So, next I'll make the roll bar.

Went to my local Home Depot to get some frame material for our kart.

Yup, regular old water pipe. (less than a buck a foot)

Got out the HF metal cutter & "pipe" bender.

I want it our roll bar to be ~30" tall with ~10" legs to attach to the lower frame rails.

So, I'll mark it at 10" then 32" (this will be the center/top of the roll bar) then another mark at 32" & finally the last mark after another 10" which equals 84" so before bending I'll cut the pipe @ 84"

After cutting, I did the first bend in the center.

Maxed out the bender to get the tightest bend possible.

Then set up to bend the legs.

Did slight inward kick, so the legs wouldn't angle out too much.

Each leg took ~40 full strokes.

Turned out pretty good!

Attached Thumbnails
SAM_2007.jpg   SAM_2001.jpg  

SAM_2033.jpg   SAM_2046.jpg  

SAM_2052.jpg  
  #16  
Old 11-16-2016, 08:48 AM
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Default Hero

Our frame is startin' to take shape.

I bent a piece of pipe last month to make a front roll cage section for El Dingo but, never got around to finishing it up.

It seems pretty close to the dimensions we need for the front section of our Hero kart so, I'll just roll with that.

I'm gonna set this frame up a little differently than I did on Desteny's kart.

The battery box set up will be about the same as on Desteny's kart but, on her's the frame had two 90 degree bends in the rear which left a space between the battery box & frame kinda like a rear bumper or even a handy grab bar & the front axle capped the ends.

Were doing it exactly opposite for this kart.

The 90 degree bends will be in the front & we'll cap off the rear with either a piece of pipe or square tube for the rear bumper.
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SAM_2010.jpg   SAM_2011.jpg  

SAM_2009.jpg  
  #17  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:53 AM
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Now we can bring together our main frame & roll bar.

Our roll bar is gonna be Dingo style, (welded in between the frame rails) instead of welded directly to the top of the frame rails & braced like on Desteny's kart or incorporated into the frame rails like on Winston's kart.

I bent a couple of pieces of scrap pipe for A-frames or caster mounts.

Picked up a couple of 8" pneumatic castors, they seem a bit tall but, all the smaller ones were solid.

We want a little bounce to the front if the wheels do pop up a bit. they should work.

Attached Thumbnails
SAM_2015.jpg   SAM_2016.jpg  

SAM_2077.jpg   SAM_2067.jpg  

SAM_2076.jpg  
  #18  
Old 11-16-2016, 05:04 PM
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I set up the battery box between the frame rails & lashed the rails together to hold everything nice-n-tight.

Then I measured, marked & cut off the extra length of frame.

They kinda looked like tail pipes but, no they have to go.

Next, using the rough grinder, I notched out the two ends so the rear bumper will fit snugly.

Then I rounded up a piece of 1" pipe for the rear bumper.

Measured it out to be ~ 4" past the frame rails on each end.

I cut it off, cleaned it up with sanding disc on grinder & I tac welded it to our frame ends.

After removing the batteries & lashing, I welded the bumper on fully.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_2084.jpg   SAM_2089.jpg  

SAM_2091.jpg   SAM_2108.jpg  

SAM_2111.jpg   SAM_2120.jpg  

  #19  
Old 11-19-2016, 08:56 AM
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Now, that we have the rear bumper welded to the main frame, we can work on squaring it up with the (2) scooter frames.

I figured it would be best to line up the (2) frames first then add our main frame.

So, I used a 1" x 2" board that fit thru the motor mount braces on the scooter frames so, that would help keep the rear aligned & I used a couple of 1/8" x 1" metal strips thru slots for the front.

Then, I set the main frame in between making sure the rear bumper was a few inches behind the tire.

I wanted the frame to angle down toward the front a little so, I set the front up on blocks @ ~ 5" & the rear ~ 8" which will keep the battery box & the floor of the kart ~ 3" - 4" off the ground.
Attached Thumbnails
SAM_2132.jpg   SAM_2133.jpg  

SAM_2137.jpg   SAM_2139.jpg  

  #20  
Old 11-19-2016, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chancer View Post
That reminds me....
Has anyone here ever tried to ride 2 scooters at once?
One foot on each. Not easy to do.
Kid stuff...
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