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  #21  
Old 03-21-2016, 05:35 PM
Felineman Felineman is offline
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I may have solved my tire problem.

PROBLEM:

I have 6 good tread tires but they have holes in them and seeing as they are molded to hub you can't remove to fix.

SOLUTION:

Cut hub out and make bead lock rims.
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  #22  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:03 PM
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A little info on the Amphicat for those that don't know what one is.
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  #23  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:42 PM
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Amphicats were ridiculously cool when I was a kid... haven't seen one for years.

Build on.
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  #24  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:21 PM
Felineman Felineman is offline
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More pics.
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  #25  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:25 PM
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How well does that Plastic weld actually work?
You seempretty confident about it.
I have heard of it before but never seen it.
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  #26  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:32 PM
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More pics. Some of my garage and tools.
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:43 PM
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More pics. Some of my garage and tools.
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  #28  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:52 PM
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More pics. Some of my garage and tools.
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  #29  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:54 PM
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@ Chancer, You use a soldering iron to melt the two pieces together. burn through 80 percent one side and and smooth, then 30 percent the other side and smooth, making sure not to burn through or warp the plastic. takes some practice. there is a plastic welder but its expensive. Glues won't work on ABS.
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  #30  
Old 03-23-2016, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felineman View Post
Glues won't work on ABS.
well, most don't.. some do however...

aaanyways...
ABS dissolves in Acetone..
and having some ABS dissolved in Acetone (different ratios for different applications)
you can use those to solvent weld ABS rather hasslefree.
Or use that as a filler where needed.

And for most applications that'll do just fine.

Oh, if your soldering iron is settable,
set the temp to around 105C that's ABS's glass transition temperature
(roughly of course)
so you don't weld as quickly through and you're almost guaranteed to not warp anything.
staying below 200C keeps the viscosity in check
(basically all there is to fancy plastic welders, apart from filament injection)

And that can be done for cheap as well (there's a soldering iron tooltip for exactly that task)

'sid
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  #31  
Old 03-23-2016, 11:03 PM
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The ABS/Acetone mix doesn't work on Cycolac ABS its melting point is 300+. You need about 350 to fuse it together. And ABS glue for black pipe doesn't work on it either. The pipe is the same stuff but it won't glue if in open air. Acetone will barely touch this stuff unless you puddle it on and leave on for more then 10 min then if gets a little soft. Melting it is the only way I've found to get it too stick. Don't forget most of the videos and tips are from people that do motorcycle or newer plastic repairs, this stuff is something completely different, but still ABS at its base core.

---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:00 AM ----------

Also I live in Canada so getting the good materials is expensive or can't be shipped over the boarder. Weird controller chemicals BS with customs department. Tried to buy 5000 bottle of model paint once from US and they wouldn't let it cross the boarder?
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  #32  
Old 03-24-2016, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felineman View Post
The ABS/Acetone mix doesn't work on Cycolac ABS its melting point is 300+. You need about 350 to fuse it together.
Uhm.. 300... uhm nope... oh wait, is that Fartenheims? then still no..
glass temp for Cycolac ABS resins (bdt5510 or dl200h) remains 105C (~220F)
melt flow rate @ 220C at a 10kg force is 14 resp. 9 g/10min (very low viscosity)
recommended extrusion nozzle temp 230-275C
but too lazy to browse through all datasheets (so I checked the two closely, and flew over three more ... getting similar values)

So, maybe that's not ABS at all...*shrugs*

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  #33  
Old 03-24-2016, 07:01 PM
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https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/eng/...rnet&sltLDAP=0 I know using a 85 watt soldering iron it wouldn't melt, my 120 watt barely melts it. But besides the point, pulled the frame in to look at the sprockets and found a couple that were hanging together with duct tape and superglue. i mean they are a total write off. So I'm waiting till Monday to go get some sprockets and needle bearings from Princess Auto.
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  #34  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:45 PM
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Sprockets are 5 bucks each but needle bearings believe it or not are 14 bucks each? How the **** can a little piece of steel and some little rods be so **** expensive.
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  #35  
Old 03-25-2016, 02:34 AM
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That sprocket now looks like one of those Chinese star weapons. That's really bad.
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  #36  
Old 03-25-2016, 09:50 AM
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Yup hole saw and welder is the only way to fix that thing. You think PA is cheap? Canadian Bearing wants 36 each for bearing.
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  #37  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:01 PM
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Why do they call it cleaning? The dirt doesn't magically disappear, it just ends up on you then when you wash somewhere else. Anyways, Modified the steering and cleaned the frame from 40+ years of crap and grime. Started to fix the engine mount that someone modified out of complete crapola. And fixed a shaft bushing that I didn't notice that tore out of the side of the frame. And the days end result follows with YUP you guessed it MORE PICTURES.
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  #38  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:10 PM
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More pics.
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  #39  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:17 PM
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More pictures.
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  #40  
Old 03-26-2016, 04:38 PM
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No pictures today, but I mounted engine with new mount, mocked transmission and torque converters and started the seat mods. I was going to use a seat off a 4 wheel mobility scooter but once I got into it the wood in the seat was fubar'd and not fixable. So I'll probably just cut the bench seat down to fit one person and use the side spaces for battery or tool boxes. Still have to figure out how to attach roll bars as the frame doesn't go past the mid body line. And one day I have to figure out the torque convert packs, I know the pads need redoing and I am going to see about a shifter mod so your not reaching between your legs to shift.
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