Go Back   DIY Go Kart Forum > Build Contest > Build Off Contest Build Logs

Notices

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-06-2015, 07:34 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default 2015 - "Sprint Kart"

We like to enter our “Sprint Kart” in the 2015 build off contest. We bought the kart, a Manco American Express, last June and felt we were too late in our build to join last years contest. We had a lot to learn! While we have started work on our project, we think with the plans we have for our build that we are still well under the 50% completed ruled.

Here is the kart as of this week & our official entry picture…



My sons and I went back and forth on weather to enter this contest. Realistically, we probably won’t finish it by deadline, too many other projects and events for the summer, but we hope maybe a deadline will help motivate us to get more done.
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #2  
Old 05-06-2015, 09:52 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Quick run through of what we have done…

Here is a pic of our kart as we bought it last June…



Our goal is to create a Sprint Car themed kart, much like the ¼ Midget race cars… by custom building a body. This project is to help teach my boys how to use the tools/shop equipement and get them more involed in the garage, plus allows me to get some pratice in on some of the metal fab equipement.


The original 6hp Tecumah Engine had some issues, so we started with a new Predator 212. Removed the governor, added a billet connecting rod and flywheel. Engine has not been started/broke-in.



Teardown and started to degrease the kart.



Build a panel behind the seat along with brackets for the seat belt.



Extended the engine mount plate.



Mocked up the axle with a new sprocket.



Mockup the engine to TC to axle sprocket…



Created an “Air Induction” that would fit under the tail cover.



Because the air filter was in the way, we had to relocate the gas tank.



Last, our other kart needed a new seat cover, so I made a new seat for this kart while I was at it.




Items that needs to be done…
• Paint engine parts and reassemble
• Run fuel line, crankcase breather, TC/chain assemble
• Create a Torque Converter cover
• Build a bracket to hold choke
• Rejet carb
• Break in Engine
• Steering (still unsure)
• Build body panels (7 total), along with backets and a dash cluster
• Create custom front, rear, and side nerf bars/bumpers
• Sandblast & Paint
• Install new brakes, axle, sprocket, and axle bearings
• Install new throttle cable, brake cable, kill switch, steering wheel, and tach
• New parts for front axles
• New wheel hubs for rear, along with 4 new rims and tires



Thanks for following along, hope to see ya at the finish line!
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #3  
Old 05-06-2015, 04:43 PM
chancer's Avatar
chancer chancer is offline
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: COMFORT, TEXAS
Posts: 9,363
Thanks: 2,438
Thanked 3,076 Times in 2,398 Posts
Default

Hey that is the best looking build off entry sign I have ever seen.
__________________
Why don't you, go back to your double wide and fry something!
  #4  
Old 05-07-2015, 08:21 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chancer View Post
Hey that is the best looking build off entry sign I have ever seen.

Ya, it's over kill... I did it during work break... I'm a Graphic Designer for NAPA... Besides you wouldn't be able to read it if I hand written it. For a guy that can draw well, I'm not good at writting a legible sentence... good thing I live in the computer era.
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #5  
Old 05-07-2015, 09:33 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Here is this week's work...

Started out by prepping the brackets for paint that I made for the engine. Rounded the corners and filed them down. By removing the original air filter box, we were also eliminating what was holding the choke handle in place, so I also made a bracket to hold it down in it's placement. I'll show more on it during install.




Prepped the flywheel shroud for paint. I had removed the engine shut off switch from the shroud previously (to be rewired to the dash). I guess OCD kicked in, cause the remaining hole in the shroud was bugging me... So cut & hammered out a plug, welded both sides, grind down the outside... little bodywork and you'll never see where it was. Little detail that nobody will notice when finished...



I also made a little dash console above the steering loop. This little console is also where the top of the brackets for the bodywork will secure to. It's just tach welded in place for now...

I have a cheap little RPM / Hour meter gauge for the center face of the console. Not sure how accurate these gauges are...but with RPM I can calculate a top speed (ballpark).


Then I started the midway body brackets that will support the body panels... Lots of test fitting and tweaking... but final result is level and squared...


Now just Rinse & Repeat for the other side!

Did some small items also... like working to get my new exhaust pipe to fit.
Until next week.....
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #6  
Old 05-08-2015, 12:43 AM
landuse's Avatar
landuse landuse is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Posts: 17,235
Thanks: 2,062
Thanked 3,410 Times in 2,778 Posts
Default

Looking good!
  #7  
Old 05-10-2015, 10:13 AM
MatthewD MatthewD is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Northern Ireland (UK)
Posts: 247
Thanks: 5
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Default

I think the engine that was previously on the AmEx was a 5hp Briggs. Could you post some more detailed pictures on how you did the air filter adapter that the white pipe goes onto?
__________________
Drifter Kart Build - http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27563
  #8  
Old 05-11-2015, 12:17 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewD View Post
I think the engine that was previously on the AmEx was a 5hp Briggs. Could you post some more detailed pictures on how you did the air filter adapter that the white pipe goes onto?
Well I'll try to explain it... I use a bunch of odds-n'-ends I pick up at a local Lowes. At the carb, I started with a 2" cooper pipe cap. Cut and drilled out the pattern of the gasket so it would bolt up to the carb. Then used a rubber 2" connector that's attached to stainless duel clamps to connect to a 2" 90˚ elbow, then to the flex hose.




At the top, I got a K&N filter adaptor, which I trimmed out a larger hole so that some plastic pipe fitting would fit up to it's outer lip. Then fitted the air filter on the chrome adaptor end.


On the other end, the two plastic pipe fittings sandwich a metal hanging bracket. Which connect to the other end of the flex pipe.


__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #9  
Old 05-11-2015, 12:56 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Not a lot done this weekend, but still manage to do a little bit...

Manage to weld, drill some holes, round the edges on the center console... not worth showing.

Added a K&N breather from the extension of the valve cover hose. Used a double barb connector, and sealed with NAPA PowerGrip (heat shrink connector), aluminum nut ends are just some leftover, junk hose dress up ends. Breather has a threaded stud that I bolted to the end of the linkage plate. Also bolted through the stud is a bracket I bent up to hold the choke lever on. Installed a new fuel line, filter, and heat shield. Reattached the air intake at the carb.



On the other side, threadlocked the TC pate on...
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #10  
Old 05-21-2015, 09:33 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

It’s been a busy two weeks… Had a photoshoot of my car/garage for work. It’s going to be the cover of the new Carlyle Tool Catalog, which meant wasting a good portion of the weekend cleaning out the garage. And it’s race month here in Indy, so spent a few days at the track. Plus, a family gathering to celebrate our twin boy’s 1st birthday!




With all that…we’ve manage to get a little work done to the kart….

Started off with taking the center gauge console/bracket back off and finished welding it up and grind down the inside portion with a diamond cut carbide burr. Went back throughout the kart and grind down the welds and re-welded some missed spots….

The bottom corners of the bracket were rounded. I primed the inside bottom portion of the console and reattached it back on the steering support. Going to paint the console with the frame and wanted the inside portions that I won’t have access at to have a coat of primer.

Next I moved to the back of the kart to build the support bracket for the tail cone. I started with a piece of angle iron and drilled holes to mount it to the back portion of the roll cage. Then I welded and drilled end caps on each end of the angle iron. This will be a mounting placement for the back side panels.



Jake hung and primed/painted the engine brackets with a glossy black. Then taped off areas of the gas tank and primed/painted it red. (And Yes, I stopped and made him wear a face mask after the photo...)


For the smaller parts we are using some rattle can primer/paint. For the body panels and frame we’ll mix our paints and use a paint gun. I’m not a fan of rattle can primers as they just don’t seal as well… but for small parts it’s not worth the hassle to mix/paint/clean with a gun… Small brackets get Epoxy Primer then Engine Enamel. Fan shroud and gas tank got an extra round of filler primer and sanding before paint.


Had a small set back… I laid out by mistake an old can of black enamel paint for Jake to use… paint did not dry correctly (separated & cracked), so had to wire brush it off and start again…

Travis got a lesson in mixing and applying a little bit of body filler. Normally I use a light weight filler for metal surfaces, but I like to use a product call ALL METAL to clean up weld lines. ALL METAL is an aluminum filled repair compound that drys harder than the common body fillers. It is still sand-able, just take a little more man-power to get it finished. It’s expensive compare to normal filler, but with my employee discount it comes out to what normal filler would cost, so I figure the little added strength & support it adds is worth it.


Lots of sanding… Start out P80 grit, then 220 grit to get the roughness out. Then primed with a high build primer.


Next we’ll redo filler in any low spots and a another run through of 220/400/600 grit for the high spots. Then primered with a high build primer. Then light sand with 600/1000. Clean dust with a wax/grease remover. Then paint/clear. On a car I would continue the process with a sealer and 2000 grit (wet), but for this kart we’ll probably stop at 1000.

Slung some mud on some other parts...



This next week we'll continue with the filler & sanding, mock up the engine again on the kart, mount the the hood over the engine, address any exhaust issues, and start on the two rear side panels.
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #11  
Old 05-21-2015, 10:23 AM
Desertduler Desertduler is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,735
Thanks: 469
Thanked 668 Times in 414 Posts
Default

That's a nice looking 55 two door post, I had a 56 post 210 Del Ray when I was a kid.
  #12  
Old 05-21-2015, 11:24 AM
rushking19's Avatar
rushking19 rushking19 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 1,009
Thanks: 96
Thanked 82 Times in 79 Posts
Default

Awesome Build
__________________
It's Fast ,But Needs One More Cylinder
The Following User Says Thank You to rushking19 For This Useful Post:
JMINDY (05-26-2015)
  #13  
Old 05-26-2015, 09:45 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertduler View Post
That's a nice looking 55 two door post, I had a 56 post 210 Del Ray when I was a kid.
Thanks, Desertduler! It was my first car that I bought when I was 9 years old. Drove it to high school in primer with a 235 inline six. Rebuilt it after I finished college.
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #14  
Old 05-26-2015, 10:15 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

So Saturday I'm clear coating some forgotten suspension parts for my Cadillac. Had the gas tank for the kart painted red, looked near perfect... Had a little bit left in the gun, so thought I'll just shoot the tank while I have this out...

OPPS! IT CRACKED/FROSTED!!!!



I let it sit till Monday night... Most of it wet sanded out and would of polished up just fine, but 2 small spots keep gumming up and peeling. By the time I got it smoothed out, both spots were too thin. Going to prime and paint it again.

I'm not a painter, just play one at night... So do anyone know what I did wrong?...

1... Everything on the suspension parts turned out fine. Some orange peel, but I've never painted clear coat very well without some O.P. or runs. Always sands out fine if needed. Larger/more important projects I've always leave to a pro...

2...There was just a little left in the gun and I sat it down for a minute to sit up the tank to shoot. Don't know if the clear changed in that short time. Came out of the gun like normal.

3...The paints were different. Suspensions parts were CrossFire black paint, while the tank was Rustoleum rattle can. Clear was CrossFire brand. Not compatible?

4...The tank was painted well over 48 hours before clear. Dry to the touch... Maybe it wasn't done curing yet?

I guess I'm leaning towards #4...
Anyways... instead of moving on, I'm fixing screwups... just like to know what I did wrong...
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #15  
Old 05-26-2015, 01:05 PM
KartFab's Avatar
KartFab KartFab is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,268
Thanks: 496
Thanked 1,440 Times in 1,018 Posts
Default

#4 is probably it. I had some issues with wrinkling (still don't know much about paint) with the Rustoleum enamel paint. I believe it is the paint curing, then adding additional solvents to a partially cured paint makes it wrinkle/frost/crack.

The way I worked around it was I would apply the paint, and a second coat of the same paint in less than 10 minutes to avoid wrinkling

for different paints, here is what I did. I would hit the part with my heat gun to get it nice and hot, then spray an ever so small amount of paint on top, then hit it with the heat gun again, just not to get it super hot or it will bubble, but just hot enough to flash off the solvents. Then I would wait a few minutes, then do another very light coat, keep repeating till the top coat looks uniform, then let it cure as you normally would.

I could be completely off base, but this works for me and im not at all experienced in this, just something I did as a work around.
__________________
Free Go Kart Plans https://kartfab.com Go Kart Videos https://www.youtube.com/c/KartFab
The Following User Says Thank You to KartFab For This Useful Post:
JMINDY (05-26-2015)
  #16  
Old 05-26-2015, 11:27 PM
chancer's Avatar
chancer chancer is offline
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: COMFORT, TEXAS
Posts: 9,363
Thanks: 2,438
Thanked 3,076 Times in 2,398 Posts
Default

I would guess #3. Rattle can paint is cheap. But the rustoleum dries in like 10 min to the touch. 48hrs you should have been cured. Then you have a quality clear in a paint gun, probably had to mix with thinner and hardener etc, the clear thinner ate the rattle can red.
__________________
Why don't you, go back to your double wide and fry something!
The Following User Says Thank You to chancer For This Useful Post:
JMINDY (05-28-2015)
  #17  
Old 05-28-2015, 12:20 AM
crazykart's Avatar
crazykart crazykart is offline
Crazy member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Swartz Creek, Michigan
Posts: 1,167
Thanks: 410
Thanked 254 Times in 220 Posts
Default

Rustoleum is an oil based enamel, and can take weeks to properly cure, but the real question is: what was the clear coats base Chemical? It was a lacquer clear coat wasn't it? Ya big no no over an oil based paint unless that paint has had a very very very long time to cure, and sometimes not even then.
The Following User Says Thank You to crazykart For This Useful Post:
JMINDY (05-28-2015)
  #18  
Old 05-28-2015, 07:30 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazykart View Post
Rustoleum is an oil based enamel, and can take weeks to properly cure, but the real question is: what was the clear coats base Chemical? It was a lacquer clear coat wasn't it? Ya big no no over an oil based paint unless that paint has had a very very very long time to cure, and sometimes not even then.
Thanks! After doing some web search, it appears Rustoleum will "crinkle" when another coat is applied after an hour from the previous coat and can take over 48 hours to fully cure. I know mine cure time was longer than 48, but not long enough...

The clear coat is Cross/FIRE HS Urethane Clearcoat designed for Cross/FIRE Basecoats and Catalyzed Single-Stage Enamels, according to the label. The Reducer is a medium and Hardner was standard. Temp was sunny 75 the day I sprayed...

When I previously used these paints (last fall) I basecoat black the frame, and I did use some spray paint on some of the rear suspension parts (red & silver). I used the same clearcoat without any problems on both. I was using Dupli-Color spray paint.


The reason I switched to Restoleum... 1. I was lazy and didn't buy paint ahead of time at work, instead went to Lowes which carries Rustoleum... 2. I wasn't all impressed with the Dupli-Color... I thought the Dupli-Color seemed to chip easy in some spots, especially along sharp edges. So I thought I try something different.

So I'm returning the unused Rustoleum and getting some Dupli-Color paint at work.

Thank you everyone for the input... the tribulations of DIY... I'm still learning!
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
  #19  
Old 05-28-2015, 10:23 AM
crazykart's Avatar
crazykart crazykart is offline
Crazy member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Swartz Creek, Michigan
Posts: 1,167
Thanks: 410
Thanked 254 Times in 220 Posts
Default

If you want to save a few bucks, and also want the paint to be hard and last then try this: Go to lowes again and pick up a quart/gallon if rustoleum (not the rattle can!) Pick up a quart/gallon of xylene (xylol, it's a paint thinner) and a quart/gallon/however much you want of the polyurethane for floors (clear coat that is extremely hard). Not only will all of this last a lot longer, it's also a lot harder when fully cured. When mixing to spray you only need about 1 to 2 parts of thinner for every 10 parts of paint or clear. If you want you can also go to tractor supply and get some enamel paint hardener and mix it onto both the base and clear, but personally I wouldn't because it's not only toxic, it's also not really needed.

I know it may sound ghetto or weird, but I've painted many a car with this exact set up and it works extremely well, and lasts. If you really want to get fancy you can go to hobby lobby (or similar store) and pick up pearlizing powder, mix it into the base or clear or both and give the paint awesome effects like it was changing colors.

I'll give a few examples as far as my previous paint jobs go, and what the pearl powder does in the base/clear set up.

Lol look at me, helping the competition. I must be insane hahaha.

Both of these were rustoleum, the trans am had no clear coat, just base, and the Camaro (black one) had the base clear. The Camaro also had a gold pearl mixed into the base coat which in the light makes it change colors from the angle viewed.
Attached Thumbnails
10308218_524808587621071_2776636512052334380_n.jpg   10361402_524808440954419_7495809118440428820_n.jpg  

1507617_524808417621088_9182868255806756388_n.jpg   10363747_524808380954425_1990349614659484166_n.jpg  

206031_238603592838151_5325655_n.jpg   216825_238603566171487_4813035_n.jpg  

216829_238603546171489_391730_n.jpg  

Last edited by crazykart; 05-28-2015 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Pics!
  #20  
Old 05-28-2015, 11:12 AM
JMINDY JMINDY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 254
Thanks: 22
Thanked 78 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Thanks for the tips, Crazykart! I have enough of the basecoat black to do the bottom portion of the frame. I am out of clear coat and was wondering about a harder substitute. I'll check into the Polyurethane. I was also looking into getting a pint of SEM Undercoating, it's the chip resistance type paint that is used on the bottom section of quarter panels. Basically, basecoat - then the clear undercoating - then clear coat.

I'm just rattle-can painting the small parts on the engine, etc.. Body & frame I'll use a base/clear. Beyond using what I already have, I'm trying to use what's available at work (NAPA) cause I get it at cost...but not opposed to buying elsewhere if it's cheaper or a better product.

Going to stay away from the candies, the pearls and metal flakes, it makes it easier to touch up paint later if needed.

Whatever products I use next time I'm going to do some test samples first to see how they react...

LOL...I'm not the competitor to worry about in this competition...there are some really nice builds going on...
__________________
2015 Build-Off Thread: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29364
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:26 AM.