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  #21  
Old 07-30-2019, 10:16 PM
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You talk about ARM processor based MCUs?
take a look at the Arduino Due
there are a few Arduinos with ST MCUs (three or four IIRC.. the due is the 'biggest' of them)
But they have downsides compared to ATMegas ...
(which I think you refer to as Arduino since that's what's on most Arduinos)
Hardware PWM and analog I/Os for example
So you need quite a few expanders slowing everything down again thanks to chip to chip communication..

That's what I was talking about btw:
either the due throwing lots of cpu power at it
or (which I personally prefere)
a fixed injection map and a raw data lookup table should do fine for 15k rpm on a single cylinder.
Since I think I have a very clean and precise way of getting there (with just an atmega)
different project.. wrong place, wrong time ..
As I said, let's cross that bridge when we get there.

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  #22  
Old 08-02-2019, 08:25 PM
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There are two Arduino-based EFI controllers that I know of. One is the nanoEFI. It is still in development and based on the Arduino Uno/ATmega328P. It is geared toward powersports engines with low cylinder counts.

The other is Speeduino. It is in production and based on the Arduino Mega/ATmega 2560. Sadly, this one started as a 328P-based ECU (called kartduino) that was even simpler than the nanoEFI. Feature creep turned it into an expensive system trying (why?) to compete with the likes of MegaSquirt, which is a vastly more established system based on Motorola/Freescale/NXP precessors. The creator of Speeduino took down all information pertaining to kartduino even though it wouldn't compete with Speeduino.
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2019, 08:45 PM
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nanoEFI is closed source...
speeduino is not
you can look into the sources and remove all "bonus material" again
remap pins where needed and maybe adjust a few things to match 328p needs.
tedious I admit, but certainly possible.

You could also just dig down deep in the oceans of them interwebs and uncover a kartduino source code that runs on a 328p off the shelf.

As soon as you start tinkering with that I'd be happy to share whatever I learned from my current (not too closely related) projects

'sid

[EDIT]
Something you might want to take a look at:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/arduems/
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  #24  
Old 08-03-2019, 12:04 PM
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After some further testing, the small pump proved to be too much for the turbo. I will need to figure out a bypass.
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2019, 07:07 AM
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I got myself some air regulator valves for cheap off ebay the other .. uhm month ...[china shipping]
They're terribly small for your application, but I think something alike and a T connector
could serve you well at least for testing..
But IDK how reliably such setup would be over a wide range of pump speed.

How about an electric pump instead, you can read the rpm signal and regulate the pump speed electronically...
I bet you have a spare nano laying around somewhere
Bonus points:
you can use the same pump just add a motor/controller to power it

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  #26  
Old 08-04-2019, 02:30 PM
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Got a 1/8" needle valve , an AN4 T fitting , a couple of 1/8" to AN4 adapters and some straight AN4 fittings on the way .

Basically it will go like this :

Engine sump -> Radiator -> Pump -> T-Fitting -> Turbo -> Crankcase

On the T-Fitting i will add the needle valve , to basically act as a bypass , and the oil that returns back thru the bypass and not thru the turbo i will drain in the valve cover , so it can get some lubriaction to the top end . The turbo will use the oil sensor hole with an AN10 size hose to drain directly into the crankcase.
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  #27  
Old 08-09-2019, 03:37 AM
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Wastegate actuator arrived...
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  #28  
Old 08-15-2019, 07:46 AM
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Some progress... Well maybe not progress but planning at least
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  #29  
Old 08-23-2019, 03:52 AM
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Bypass valve and fittings arrived.
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  #30  
Old 08-23-2019, 05:57 AM
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I just fixed my dad's espresso machine..
And I think I saw some nice part..
the over pressure valve of the ULKA pump in it

it has a 1/8" fitting..
the one I held in my hands was settable (and clear plastic ))
but there are brass versions available.
and they're terribly small and simple
it's a tiny spring on the end of a fitting holding a rubber seal shut in a T-fitting.
preset valve's are usually set to somewhere between 16 and 18 bar;
but I bet you can lower those values enough to be of use.

here's an internet image of the afore mentioned over pressure valve:
(unfortunately it's not as clear as my dad's... so you can't really see the spring and seal)
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the dull white plastic in the center is the pump's neck.. (1/8" thread)
and it pumps into the 6mm OD teflon hose with the brass nut, until the valve triggers,
then it drains the excess through the 6mm ID silicone tube at the bottom of the pic.
Inside the 'head' of the valve to the left is a grub screw that adjusts the pretension to the spring you can barely make out.
And that's all there is to it.
And that plastic tiny thingamabob holds 18 bar just nicely.

Maybe something like that would serve you well *shrugs*

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  #31  
Old 08-23-2019, 06:19 AM
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Or i could have just ordered the same pump but with a built in valve... Oops

Im gonna go with the setup above. From the left side of T fitting is the pump pressure line , right side of T goes directly to turbo. Top of the T goes to the valve, which then drains into the valve cover as extra lubrication for the top end. Turbo drains to the crankcase. This way, turbo gets the most pressure, the excess is routed thru the valve. As the oil warms up, turbo will flow easier, thust the valve can be adjusted as needed.
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  #32  
Old 08-23-2019, 10:42 AM
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Interesting Build, I have the itch to Boost a 212 Predator as well...
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  #33  
Old 08-23-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bow View Post
Interesting Build, I have the itch to Boost a 212 Predator as well...
May be better off with an AMR300 or the sort... Most of the builds i saw indicated this doesnt / wont work. Kinda anticlimactic to go forwards and everywhere you look its contradicting evidence..

Will see tho, i really want to see this finished..
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  #34  
Old 08-23-2019, 10:43 PM
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Yeah I heard it's quite the helicopter flight of engine mods
(you increase throttle to lift up...you start to gyro,
you increase rear prop to compensate you start to drift,
you tilt to compensate you start to you roll,
you adjust blade pitch to compensate you loose height,
you have to increase throttle to compensate..... )
Well something along those lines anyways..

and we all know because of that helicopters surely cannot fly!!

Don't get discouraged.. you'll eventually get it set up properly,
it never was an easy "bolt on and go" solution anyways
(turbos never are .. or they just don't offer much of an improvement)

You can get it to work, I'm sure!

'sid
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  #35  
Old 08-29-2019, 02:00 PM
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M8x1,25 Banjo bolt with 1,5mm restrictor has arrived...
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  #36  
Old 09-02-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewbCarter View Post
May be better off with an AMR300 or the sort... Most of the builds i saw indicated this doesnt / wont work. Kinda anticlimactic to go forwards and everywhere you look its contradicting evidence..

Will see tho, i really want to see this finished..
Yup, I'm going the belt driven route: the AMR300 is enroute, the AMR500 is in the garage.

I have been doing a bit of research on the subject of force induction singles.

You might want to plan for a Plenum between the compressor and the head,
About x3 the size of the engine, to help with the reversion pulse that single cylinders have. That gives plenty of pressurized air for the motor to get forced down its throat when the intake valve opens.

I'll start a new thread when I get my parts more together, so I don't hijack your thread.
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  #37  
Old 09-02-2019, 11:39 AM
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I think fuel pooling will be an issue with a plenum between the turbo and engine. The Hansen kart supercharger kit used a plenum that had a very unique shape, I assume to prevent fuel problems. You can kind of see it here:

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  #38  
Old 09-09-2019, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewbCarter View Post
Most of the builds i saw indicated this doesnt / wont work. Kinda anticlimactic to go forwards and everywhere you look its contradicting evidence..

All the more reason to do it ...

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  #39  
Old 11-22-2019, 06:57 AM
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Excuses for my long time away from this place , college is being a pain , and along with other stuff i just didnt have time to work on the project.

The original plan of execution still holds , some changes include a pump with a built in pressure releif valve , so that i can dial in the pressure to what the turbo wants , and the pressure will stay constant no matter the RPM the pump is turning.

Im going to test the engine with the stock internals , which is risky but so far i just dont have the financial backbone to invest into a project like this , at the moment at least . I had planned a PVL aluminium flywheel , ARP studs and bolt kit , a billet connecting rod and 18 or 22lb springs with a stage 2 cam , to help the engine breathe.

If i did my math right , and im reading the charts for the turbo right , the engine will need to spin up to at least 7000RPM for the turbo to do its thing ( chart says flow rate from .75 cubic meters to 6.3 cubic meters per minute , if that even refers to the flwo rate thru the exhaust housing ? )

As far as other details go , Alliexpress has me covered, where i figured out a complete belt drive with pulleys that fit the pump and the crank of the engine . I will have to machine a small plate that attaches to the crankcase cover to hold the pump , and also make a small plate that attaches to the old fuel tank mounting points , from which i can fab up anchor points to hold the turbo firmly . This way it also sits far enough above the oil level to hopefully enable quick and clean draining from the turbo.

Tubing is where it gets interesting .... Croatia is a bit of a pickle for DIY stuff , my original plan was to hunt for discarded exhaust systems , and rent a pipe bender . And so far its the best option , so i will try that .

So again , sorry for the slow progress , but its still all here and waiting .
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  #40  
Old 11-23-2019, 06:45 AM
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Ok dude, let's be honest and tell everybody that you have a new girlfriend and some other turbo lubrication is more important :p
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