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  #301  
Old 01-22-2020, 02:04 PM
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Default Full Color Ad!

I was Ebay searching "bird engineering go kart" and I found this old 1979 paper ad!

This is the only one I've found that shows the entire kart in full color!

It looks like it's the top end model, as it's got the bodykit, aluminum wheels, and pedal pads.
It would be totally epic to find one of the top end ones as a survivor!

The gold steering wheel is interesting.....
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  #302  
Old 01-24-2020, 03:02 PM
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Default I'm a Pro Scrapper now!

I was walking my dogs past Darrell's house today(the guy who sold me the rototiller), and I stopped to look at some electric motors/generators/alternators(most notable was a free turning Coleman motor, but it had something like a 1/2" PTO and I don't have a use for it).
As I was looking through some crates of miscellaneous junk, I found a bunch of 3 HP Briggs flathead parts!!!
Darrell picks this stuff up on trash day BTW, so who knows where it came from.

I found a piston/con rod, but the piston rings were rusted in place.
I also found some rusty 3 HP valves and tappets, but again, rust had beaten me to it.(I guess I can call it the tetanus crate now )

However, I did find a pretty clean 3 HP flywheel, a points type ignition coil, and a spare starter rope assembly!!!

So I made a mental note and came back riding the Hothead, and I ended up paying him only $1!!! for the parts!!

I don't know what condition the coil is in, but it probably would've been trashed anyways, and it is probably good since it's pre-Magnetron, which means less complicated construction. The starter rope is a bit handy to have around, especially with the handle assembly.

The flywheel was in amazingly good condition!! It has been painted silver on the front, so no rust there, and the only other rust was some VERY light rust on the back and the taper bore.
No cracks or chips of any kind!!

I think the coil and 'wheel came off a silver small-block, as the spark plug wire and the 'wheel are silver. The rust on the 'wheel came off with about 5 seconds of a wire brush! Plus the magnet is still quite strong.


And of course now you're wondering what my plans for the flywheel are? Simple, put it on the Hothead and go FAST!!

It's actually in better condition than the original flywheel on the HiPo, plus the engine will rev a little faster! I also plan to go with an adjustable timing coil bracket that I can now use with a 3 HP flywheel.

I just need to get the stuck HiPo flywheel off now....


On the same kart trip today, I also got some scrap wood for a seat bottom!
I actually strapped a plastic crate to the Hothead to carry some tools and the parts today, so what happened is I carried a right angle ruler and a saw to these two big sheets of plywood someone put on the curb and just cut out a big enough chunk!
Since the pillow is a bit ugly and I don't want to wait until I relocate the seat back to make a seat bottom, so I'll just make 2! One for the current setup, and one with original dimensions later!


Today was actually the first time I used the Hothead for a utility purpose, despite that it's still got a vacuum leak.



When I left Darrell's place, I had spilled oil when I was oiling the clutch all over the drive tire, and I was starting in decaying leaf litter, so when I hit the gas, the Hothead peeled out for about a solid 5 seconds!!!

It took a while to get going, but it was SO EPIC!!
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  #303  
Old 01-24-2020, 08:24 PM
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You're lucky, I have a kart that on leaves won't even try to go. It would rather just sit there spinning the tire and digging a hole for eternity. Although that kart doesn't run at the moment, too many peelouts on a gokart with 9:1 reduction and a minibike backplate. Plus it's a larger kart, and I'm 150 pounds. And that's why I hate turf savers.b But that 3hp flywheel's a nice find.
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  #304  
Old 01-25-2020, 03:46 PM
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Well, I just took the Hothead for a spin around the neighborhood, and it's surprisingly pleasant to cruise around in! Albeit it took me a little to figure out the tuning, but it's nice to ride at about 1/2 throttle.

I explored the neighborhood, and even found a beautiful 1968 cherry red Mustang notchback in someone's driveway! It had an automatic, a 289 V8, Cragar alloys, and it was simply BEAUTIFUL!! Plus it was all factory!!
The owner was out trying to get it running after it had been sitting a bit, and it coughed a little, but didn't stay running while I was there.


Aaaaand then I ran out of gas.
This kart is surprisingly thirsty, and it doesn't help that the tank is a bit small, but oh well. It only had about a 1/6 gal. of gas in it, so that explains the rather short run time today. I plan to keep the tank dry until I fix the vacuum leak, since I'll have to pull the carb, and that way I won't have to drain it.
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Old 01-27-2020, 10:28 AM
Randy Forbes Randy Forbes is offline
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Good job! I just skimmed over a lot of the pages, cutting to the chase at the end. But I have a question, and a tip about chains...

In one thread or another, you mentioned that you thought you were the youngest to win the Build Off; how young is that? In full disclosure, my 65th birthday was in December, but I built my 1st mini-bike at age 11, and earned the money to buy my first go kart when I was 14 (see picture of 14 yo me at the end of post).

Much like you, I learned about chains the hard way, and I no longer use a master link in any of them, instead preferring to "break" the chain at the appropriate link, and then press the pin back into place. This won't necessarily make up for when you need a half-link (sometimes called an offset link) but they too can be inserted without using a failure prone m/l.

Your solution of stacking washers, while addressing the problem, may not provide enough support under the engine, and could cause one or more of the mounting lugs to break off. See if you can find a suitable piece of aluminum (or steel, but it adds weight) the same thickness as your stack of washers. Use two (>2) or more plates if you need to, but then the engine will have full support.

Here's a random picture of the chain-break tool, and whether it's #35 or #219, the tools look and operate the same, only the spacing is different. Most go karts and mini-bikes use #35, and the #219 seems to be more popular on modern racing karts (like the World Formula PDB/Yamaha setup I lucked into last summer).



Chain break tool prices start at under $20.00 to over $40.00, so shop around, use caution as the pin can be fragile (replacements available).

Here's a reliable source for one, and there's probably the best video on using one properly. I have used them for parts purchases, and their service has been very good.

https://www.accelerationkarting.com/...chaintool.html

To anyone in south/central Florida (J.S. @ SMS...) then check out TS Racing in Bushnell, Florida, my preferred place to get new parts from. They also own and operate the VERY NICE Bushnell Motorsports Park, where they host an annual Vintage Karting Association 3-day event in January (last year) or February (on the 13th-15th this year).

TS Racing: http://www.tsracing.com/Default.aspx

BMP: https://bushnellmotorsportspark.com/...park-facility/

Vintage Karting Association website: http://vkakarting.com/
VKA Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1394603367499268/

Please note that I have no financial interest, just promoting the locals and the sport.

Fourteen (14) year old me on my 1st kart, a McCulloch R200



And again, congratulations on winning the Build Off, that's good incentive for more builds in the future!
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  #306  
Old 01-27-2020, 10:43 AM
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Nice kart!

I'm 13 and this is actually my first kart. My very first experience with small engines was cleaning the carb on a Lawn-Boy mower that had been sitting for awhile. That was only a few months before I got this kart! I got it and started working on it when I was 11 in fact.

Yeah, I know the washers are not ideal, but they were all I could get right now and I can't fabricate much with the limited tools I currently have. I do have spare mounting bolts just in case!

If I was going really high speed or had an absurd amount of power, I would just directly pin the chain together, or at least use a safety wired master link. (I do have a chain breaker tool BTW )

It's not really possible for me to directly pin it together, as clutch to tire clearance is extremely tight. There's only about 1/8" between the tire sidewall and the crankshaft. For a while, the tire would literally rub the end of the crankshaft, so it made grooves in the sidewall. I managed to space the tire out to the max to keep it clear, but it's still tight.

You're probably wondering why it's set up like this, simple: It wasn't me!
As I have mentioned before, this kart has been modified a LOT by the previous owner, and the roll hoop literally touched the engine until I cut it off. And as you can see in this picture, the PO also slotted out the engine plate like crazy to make it work. Butchery!

The way I got it, the engine was/is behind the axle, and was tilted a bit. The flat bar that was welded between the rails in the back is thicker than the engine plate, so it made for a tilt. The washers actually increase the contact area with the frame.
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  #307  
Old 01-27-2020, 05:18 PM
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Ok phew. I found the bushings on partstree.com as well!
I have contacted the seller as they still haven't arrived, so if all else fails, I can get it from PartsTree, albeit for a higher price. If the seller didn't ship them via UPS Mail Innovations, this wouldn't have happened!
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