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  #41  
Old 11-20-2018, 09:39 AM
p0440 p0440 is offline
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Here is a video of my top speed run, only got 15mph out of it, altho the calculation from BMI website says i should get 21mph. wondering if i am on high speed setting.
also, is my motor too noisy? or normal? looking forward to mess around with my motor phase wire order maybe i will find a smoother configuration.

Functional Artist please let me know if i am in anyway taking over your thread, i plan to start a new one once i get a full step by step built video up.

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  #42  
Old 11-20-2018, 07:55 PM
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Can that controller output rpm somehow, to some sort of readout? Or maybe you can intercept one of the phase wires to do it...
I'm just saying things LOL I have no idea what I'm talking about.

Also, your diagram matches something I saw on EndlessSphere and, in the end, the guy said time is money and buy a self learning controller
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  #43  
Old 11-20-2018, 08:09 PM
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Here is a video of my top speed run, only got 15mph out of it, altho the calculation from BMI website says i should get 21mph. wondering if i am on high speed setting.
also, is my motor too noisy? or normal? looking forward to mess around with my motor phase wire order maybe i will find a smoother configuration.

Functional Artist please let me know if i am in anyway taking over your thread, i plan to start a new one once i get a full step by step built video up.

Nice Video!

The label usually lists (no load) MAX RPM's, While "under load" is a whole different story.

I think the "noisiness" is just a characteristic of it being "brushless".

Mine sounds like that too.



Nope, no problem
...your talkin' about Boma brushless motors so, it's kool.
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  #44  
Old 11-21-2018, 12:31 AM
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Thanks again for your input Functional Artist!

Tonight i tried out all different sequence of the phase wire, nothing works except for green to green, yellow to blue and blue to yellow.

Also received a new thumb throttle which doesnt have the battery indicator, so only 3 wires, and i successfully wired it up and now my "stock" pedal pulls the thumb throttle and works perfectly.

Next is F1 style brake light, i bought a momentary normally close push button so as soon as my brake master cylinder lever pulls away from the button (as i step on the brake pedal), brake light would come on.

and also led light bar is coming haha.

i am having so much fun!
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  #45  
Old 11-21-2018, 06:37 AM
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Thanks again for your input Functional Artist!

Tonight i tried out all different sequence of the phase wire, nothing works except for green to green, yellow to blue and blue to yellow.

Also received a new thumb throttle which doesnt have the battery indicator, so only 3 wires, and i successfully wired it up and now my "stock" pedal pulls the thumb throttle and works perfectly.

Next is F1 style brake light, i bought a momentary normally close push button so as soon as my brake master cylinder lever pulls away from the button (as i step on the brake pedal), brake light would come on.

and also led light bar is coming haha.

i am having so much fun!
Your very welcome. I'm glad you got 'er up & running.

Yup, electric karts are super kool & fun.

As for connecting lights. (dash board indicator, running light or a brake light)

Most of these controllers output pack voltage (in your case 48VDC)

The switches shouldn't be a problem as their just signal/control circuits & really don't carry much (if any) current.

But, the lights (themselves) are a different story.

Your LED light bar (most of the DC lights) is probably 12VDC. (for automotive use)
* If you connect 48VDC directly to it "POOF" is the likely outcome.
IMO, you have (2) options

1.) Buy (3) more lights & connect all (4) 12VDC lights in series. (to create a 48VDC light)

Here is a thread with more info

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38841

& here is a video


or

2.) Rig up a voltage divider, here is how I did it on my (48VDC) Torsk kart.

"For the 48V to 12V voltage divider...
I soldered a 3Kohm resistor to the red wire (48V+) coming from the SC wire
...& then, soldered both a 1Kohm resistor & a piece of ~16g, black wire to the other end of the 3Kohm resistor
The other end of the 1Kohm resistor connects to the 5A fuse holder & then to the red "extension wire" going to the brake light
…& the black wire (from the voltage divider) goes to the battery pack negative (-)"

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38905
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  #46  
Old 11-21-2018, 08:14 AM
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2.) Rig up a voltage divider, here is how I did it on my (48VDC) Torsk kart.

"For the 48V to 12V voltage divider...
I soldered a 3Kohm resistor to the red wire (48V+) coming from the SC wire
...& then, soldered both a 1Kohm resistor & a piece of ~16g, black wire to the other end of the 3Kohm resistor
The other end of the 1Kohm resistor connects to the 5A fuse holder & then to the red "extension wire" going to the brake light
…& the black wire (from the voltage divider) goes to the battery pack negative (-)"

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38905
Thanks!

I will look into option 2.

Meanwhile, any disadvantage if I wire the lights just to 1 pack of the 12v?

Am I at risk of draining 1 out of the 4 battery quicker than the other?
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  #47  
Old 11-21-2018, 10:07 AM
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So i found this and i bought it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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  #48  
Old 11-22-2018, 08:49 AM
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Yup, that'll do it.

It's basically a professionally designed & manufactured voltage divider
…& it even comes with a (built-in) fuse/holder

It'll work great for your light bar or other 12DCV accessories
...but, keep in mind, the voltage coming out of the brake light plug (from the speed controller & going to the brake light) will still be "pack voltage"

So, you'll need a separate one just for the brake light circuit
...or (again, were back to) wiring multiple lights in series, to create a "pack voltage" compatible brake light.

Then, you can get creative with their placement like (2) stacked on top of each other
…or side by side
...or (4) in a row etc.

* Check these little LED marker lights out: (~$2.00 ea.)
...their only 3/4" & these ones even have a "smoked" look

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-3-4-Mini...3Lt:rk:18:pf:0
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  #49  
Old 11-22-2018, 05:22 PM
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i am actually going to connect my brake light to the same 12vdc circuit as my led light bar, but wired to a momentary normally closed push button which will be pushed down by the brake master cylinder lever when brake is not applied, once i step on the brake, the level pulls away from the push button and close the circuit to light up the brake..
atleast thats my plan, parts will come in tomorrow, so hopefully it all works out
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  #50  
Old 11-22-2018, 05:26 PM
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i bought F1 style "flashing" led brake lights, since its basically a mini F1.
speaking of mini F1, i am following your mini aerial atom build, its super awesome!
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  #51  
Old 11-23-2018, 06:52 PM
sikbrik sikbrik is offline
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Going to grab 5 of these for this 60v pack build. They seem to have a good high discharge rate. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHDCBYA..._Guk-BbT9J71W2

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 PM ----------

Also, is 8ga wire overkill for this setup?

Seems that's what I'd want for continuous 35a and, although this is probably only 35 at spikes during takeoff, it seems to be acceptable overkill, but I'm a noob and don't want to go way overboard.
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  #52  
Old 11-24-2018, 12:08 AM
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Going to grab 5 of these for this 60v pack build. They seem to have a good high discharge rate. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHDCBYA..._Guk-BbT9J71W2

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 PM ----------

Also, is 8ga wire overkill for this setup?

Seems that's what I'd want for continuous 35a and, although this is probably only 35 at spikes during takeoff, it seems to be acceptable overkill, but I'm a noob and don't want to go way overboard.
Couple things:
Check your front wheels and make sure they are straight (That can affect top speed)

I would go with 4-6GA, it doesn't cost much more.

Before upgrading batteries get a volt meter and see how much battery sag you have.

For batteries 18-22ah are the same size. So go with 22ah if that is your reason for choosing that battery. Ebay has the best prices.
Bettery to buy once cry once and go with with Leaf cells, if you can find a decent deal on them. Or watch hobbyking.com for the next few weeks. And go with lithium batteries. They are significantly lighter and can handle higher amp discharge. HOBBYKING10 gives you 10% off
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  #53  
Old 11-24-2018, 07:55 AM
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Thanks, Quinc... we don't have any batteries today, it's a conversion from an oil burner.

It's probably negligable but the 18ah saves 15lbs for the set of 5 vs the 22ah, and $100 less total. That was really my driving factor but I'll revisit the 22ah before I pull the trigger. I've used this brand in power wheels and they have good QC and last a long time.

I can't afford lipo or I'd have chosen a better motor than this one, but it's a great thought for those with higher-end builds.
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  #54  
Old 11-25-2018, 12:05 AM
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Thanks, Quinc... we don't have any batteries today, it's a conversion from an oil burner.

It's probably negligable but the 18ah saves 15lbs for the set of 5 vs the 22ah, and $100 less total. That was really my driving factor but I'll revisit the 22ah before I pull the trigger. I've used this brand in power wheels and they have good QC and last a long time.

I can't afford lipo or I'd have chosen a better motor than this one, but it's a great thought for those with higher-end builds.


Onsale at batterysharks. 23.50$ each Might be a better deal depending on shipping.
https://www.batterysharks.com/Univer...180_b12-18.htm

But look into a better battery pack. Electric car bats or lipo etc.
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Old 11-25-2018, 01:03 PM
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60v lipo packs I've looked at are about $650. Not bad but it's the total budget for this particular build.

Don't get me wrong...v2.0, once we build a proper full size frame, will use higher rated components but we're using a cadet frame so it's a "kids" kart (I sorta fit in it) and I'm certain the 2kw 60v BOMA won't justify lipo or a fancy controller.

FunctionalArtist was seeing about 35a peak and 15a sustained, I believe. The motor only has 10ga wire as delivered and I don't plan on rewiring it. It'll never draw enough to make the upgrades worthwhile, unlike the Leeson (or similar) in your build Quinc. That thing needs the juice.

We won't get to wiring it until January at this point but I'll probably take the advice to use the 22ah high discharge gel. 15 extra lbs be darned. Found a set of 5 for $250 shipped. Then we'll start building the 6ga battery pack harness.

I might go crazy and add a momentary switch with a timer and 6th battery as an afterburner (72v) for 10 seconds or so... we'll see.
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  #56  
Old 11-25-2018, 02:15 PM
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60v lipo packs I've looked at are about $650. Not bad but it's the total budget for this particular build.

Don't get me wrong...v2.0, once we build a proper full size frame, will use higher rated components but we're using a cadet frame so it's a "kids" kart (I sorta fit in it) and I'm certain the 2kw 60v BOMA won't justify lipo or a fancy controller.

FunctionalArtist was seeing about 35a peak and 15a sustained, I believe. The motor only has 10ga wire as delivered and I don't plan on rewiring it. It'll never draw enough to make the upgrades worthwhile, unlike the Leeson (or similar) in your build Quinc. That thing needs the juice.

We won't get to wiring it until January at this point but I'll probably take the advice to use the 22ah high discharge gel. 15 extra lbs be darned. Found a set of 5 for $250 shipped. Then we'll start building the 6ga battery pack harness.

I might go crazy and add a momentary switch with a timer and 6th battery as an afterburner (72v) for 10 seconds or so... we'll see.
I bet if you went with a better controller like a kelly or Altraxx 100-150amp you could get more out of that little motor. This guy is running 2500w with 60v 5ah and getting 15minutes of run time. (I picked up my 4s 5ah 25C batteries from HK for 21$ each shipped.) Then spent way too much on a good charger and power supply and connectors etc

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  #57  
Old 11-25-2018, 03:40 PM
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I do wonder if something like this, 4 in series (59v) with 4 others in parallel (to get 10ah) would work...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...html?wrh_pdp=3

---------- Post added at 05:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:32 PM ----------

It's a vicious cycle...better batteries, better controller, half the runtime, more speed , possibly less motor life. Upgrade motor and controller, double the battery investment, faster kart similar runtime to the 22ah SLA. It starts to become a compromise between the 4 kids to feed and multiple projects to fund.
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Old 11-25-2018, 07:15 PM
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I do wonder if something like this, 4 in series (59v) with 4 others in parallel (to get 10ah) would work...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...html?wrh_pdp=3


Exactly^^ I bought mine in the soft case for 19$ each onsale from HK.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sikbrik View Post
It's a vicious cycle...better batteries, better controller, half the runtime, more speed , possibly less motor life. Upgrade motor and controller, double the battery investment, faster kart similar runtime to the 22ah SLA. It starts to become a compromise between the 4 kids to feed and multiple projects to fund.
Story of my life! Started with a broke down razor dune buggy and now have a fleet of powerwheels, mx, and karts. All my toys together i have 22x sla batteries in use..
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  #59  
Old 11-26-2018, 12:24 PM
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Got my light bar, brake light, and main battery disconnect switch all installed this past weekend.

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Old 11-26-2018, 07:01 PM
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P0440...that thing is awesome! Nice build and so close to our plans, it's a little eerie!

Just got a USPS notification that my motor/controller were delivered to my job this evening. I've never been this excited to go to work tomorrow! LOL

Oh, and I love that big cutoff switch... definitely confirmed that's the style we want. Thanks for sharing the video
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