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  #61  
Old 06-23-2011, 09:52 PM
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Wait! Time to type in stream of consciousness! I could knock those rivets off, rotate, and just use 3 bolts instead.
Yes...it's what we all do.
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  #62  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:44 PM
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I was thinking about how easy it is to rotate the clone recoils. IDK why it just hit me then. Now, does anyone know what will help it stay running longer?
  #63  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:51 PM
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I was thinking about how easy it is to rotate the clone recoils. IDK why it just hit me then. Now, does anyone know what will help it stay running longer?
a gas tank? sounds like it only starts off the gas in the spark plug hole.
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  #64  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:52 PM
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i hate how these motors feel like they have no compression.
  #65  
Old 06-24-2011, 12:03 AM
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whenever i build a mower i usualy start it up before i bother putting the blade on etc to make sure it works. I've never had any problems running them without a blade/ blade disk

maybe im just lucky
  #66  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:39 AM
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a gas tank? sounds like it only starts off the gas in the spark plug hole.
The carb was full so it should run a little longer. Have you ever shut off the gas on a clone and just let it run? It goes for a minute or so.

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whenever i build a mower i usualy start it up before i bother putting the blade on etc to make sure it works. I've never had any problems running them without a blade/ blade disk

maybe im just lucky
Well, I know that it SHOULD work. It ran when it was given to me.
  #67  
Old 06-24-2011, 12:52 PM
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i would duct tape that gas tank onto it
  #68  
Old 06-24-2011, 02:16 PM
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Your getting an air leak through the carb. You need a o-ring for the carb to seal around the intake tube, try to make a ridge in the carb and put the factory o-ring on from the briggs carb. Or to make things way easier, use the original carb and gas tank.
  #69  
Old 08-04-2011, 09:57 PM
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Finally got back at this the last two days. Here's where it stands right now. What are the puffs coming back out of the carb?

  #70  
Old 08-04-2011, 11:07 PM
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sounds like the flywheel is too light.. let go of the throttle and it instantly shuts off.

as for the sucking noise i have no idea
  #71  
Old 08-05-2011, 01:53 AM
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Well yea the flywheel is going to be light since it's a mower engine but I thought it's been concluded these can run with just the light fly wheels.
  #72  
Old 08-05-2011, 03:33 PM
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Could that white smoke be from the carb leaking?
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  #73  
Old 08-05-2011, 04:18 PM
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Could that white smoke be from the carb leaking?
The carb leaking which way? That gets shot out with some force very quickly. I think it may need a new plug too, as this is the original and this mower saw lots of use.
  #74  
Old 08-05-2011, 05:02 PM
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Aren't they sealed with rings? Maybe a new ring will help?
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  #75  
Old 08-05-2011, 05:22 PM
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If anything I think it may be some type of decompression. Maybe Russ will chime in. Anyways, I rigged up a little air cleaner from a piece of dust mask and sheet metal. I'll try playing with it soon hopefully to see if this will cause it to run a bit richer.

  #76  
Old 08-05-2011, 06:56 PM
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Sweet hopefully that will help. That's me on utube btw.
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  #77  
Old 08-05-2011, 08:00 PM
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not really sure if this is at all the case, but for some reason its nagging me this could be the cause. are you sure the camshaft is timed correctly? seems to me like maybe the intake valve is open on the exhaust or compression stroke.....

decompression would come out the exhaust right? i suppose you could try a new plug too, wouldn't hurt.
  #78  
Old 08-06-2011, 01:02 PM
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Hmmm... riding mower 2 cylinder... gives me a great idea.


I wonder how difficult that would be to set up?
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  #79  
Old 08-06-2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by B.M.800 View Post
Hmmm... riding mower 2 cylinder... gives me a great idea.


I wonder how difficult that would be to set up?
Very Very hard
  #80  
Old 08-06-2011, 06:53 PM
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Check valve lash and spark plug/magneto gap.
Incorrect mag gap affects timing.
Do not use business cards as there is too much variability in thicknesses.
Use feeler gages.
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