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  #21  
Old 11-20-2019, 12:48 PM
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Running inboard or outboard is based mainly on space or ease of alignment primarily.

I personally will not run a clutch with the sprocket oriented inboard because I don't like the fact should something happen and it sling the chain off then the chain is going to gouge up the engine crankcase.

I hate chewed up engines. Look like crap.
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2019, 01:37 PM
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I find it easier to take apart/reassemble the chain with the clutch sprocket outboard. Plus I think it just looks aesthetically "right". Just my opinion.
Of course, if you decide to run it inboard and are worried about the sidecover getting chewed up, you could just put on a chain guard, which protect a pretty reasonable amount of the sidecover.
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:06 PM
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I've attached some photos. Photo #1 shows the way I had it set up. I think I misunderstood BigWes' early suggestion, and I put the washers on the inside to space the clutch out while leaving the engine alone.

My understanding at this point is that I should minimize how far away from the centerline of the engine the clutch is mounted. See Photo #2 for my understanding of what I should try. Disregard the bolt hanging out because it's too long now to thread in all the way. It's just there to demonstrate how it will all go together until I buy a shorter bolt.

To make Photo #2 work out I'll have to slide the engine outward 1/2" (the thickness of the 3 washers I took out). In the photo of the underside of the engine mounting plate you'll see that I only have 3/4" of steel to work with. I don't think that leaves me enough steel to create 4 new slots, but if you guys think it is worthwhile I can fabricate an adapter plate to relocate the engine 1/2" outward.

Hopefully I've explained myself well enough! It always makes sense in my head - on paper, not so much!
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clutch 1.JPG   clutch 2.JPG  

engine plate.JPG  
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2019, 01:18 PM
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Without it being spaced like you had it before your wheel won't even go on with the chain will it? I have the same issue on my kenbar without washers the brake rubs on the sprocket and my chain won't be aligned.
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:44 PM
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Don't try to move the engine over. Instead, stack some washers between the wheel hub and the sprocket to space the sprocket out farther. That way the clutch can be closer to the engine.
Somewhere in my videos on my YouTube channel I have a time lapse of me stacking washers to fix alignment issues on my kart(I think it's Pt. 1 of my Yard Kart Resto playlist).
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  #26  
Old 11-21-2019, 06:08 PM
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Ehh, it's probably fine as-is. The majority of people responding (including me) was mainly speaking of any extreme positioning of your clutch on the outer edge of the crankshaft extension. That first photo you posted made it look worrisome.

The next thing to be cognizant of, is to make sure your chain tension is not too tight. See attachment...


P.S. If you can move the drive sprocket & brake drum assembly closer to the engine, then do it. It can only help and not hinder matters.
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2019, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
Ehh, it's probably fine as-is. The majority of people responding (including me) was mainly speaking of any extreme positioning of your clutch on the outer edge of the crankshaft extension. That first photo you posted made it look worrisome.

The next thing to be cognizant of, is to make sure your chain tension is not too tight. See attachment...


P.S. If you can move the drive sprocket & brake drum assembly closer to the engine, then do it. It can only help and not hinder matters.
Yes, three washers will be fine. I too was thinking by the way you was writing that your clutch was hanging half way off the shaft. You don't have to have it up against the engine housing by any means and I prefer at least one good machine bushing between any attachments I mount to the crank and mounting flange. I think the proper thing is called a bellville washer...I know I didn't spell that right...

That chain torque and the end of the clutch just doesn't need to hang out past the end of the crankshaft if possible.

And if you need to stack a pile of washers on your retaining bolt until you can get a shorter bolt then go ahead and do so...just make sure you get good thread engagement with your bolt. Don't overtorque or strip anything out. I suggest antiseize compound on all of it. The keyway, the shaft, and the bolt. Use a lockwasher for security purposes.

I dislike clutches but they are simple, easy, and compact.

My apologies for misunderstanding your situation and not giving better advice myself.

Hellion passes along excellent advise when he chooses to do so. I see he is quite capable of doing so. Just don't rattle his cage too much after you wake him up! No telling what he might do or say! Not that I don't find it entertaining of course!
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2019, 08:23 AM
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Thanks guys. I appreciate everyone's input.

-Jamie
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2019, 02:49 PM
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Watch out for that Wes guy up there. He doesn't call himself BigWes by accident. He earned that title at the weight gym plus he's huge, over 7 feet tall. When he gets mad he just crushes people with his manly man strength. He doesn't even work up a sweat doing so and I heard he made Chuck Norris blink once.

Don't cross him!
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  #30  
Old 11-22-2019, 10:07 PM
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Lol...no one messes with Chuck!
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