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  #21  
Old 12-06-2019, 10:05 AM
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Default Electrical connection questions

And the motor mount plate trimmed to size:

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If I don't use a jackshaft I would run the chain (or belt) down and use spacers under the motor for tensioning.

But the speed/gearing calculator tells me I will have to use a jackshaft to keep the top speed down to where I want it to be at around 10 mph.

The jackshaft bearing plates will get welded to the swingarm in front of the shock or if necessary to the underside of the swingarm in the same location.

The motor will be oriented the other way with the output sprocket on the right side which I believe will mean the motor wiring will run as it comes with a clockwise sprocket rotation.

Now my wiring question, the connectors wired to the controller are labeled:
Hall
Throttle
Brake
Brake
3-Speed
Indicator Light
E-Lock
Brake Light
Charge
Reverse

If I am understanding what has been posted in other threads for this controller, I will use:
Hall
Throttle
3-Speed
E-Lock (for ignition key/switch)
Reverse

I do not need to do anything with the connectors marked:
Brake
Brake
Brake Light
Charge

Am I correct, and if not, what am I missing?
My batteries will be charged separately.
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  #22  
Old 12-07-2019, 10:40 PM
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Default Back together again

Today I welded on the caps for the bottom frame rail stiffeners, lengthened the steering tube, and burned a hole...


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As is often the case, I forgot to take pictures of the end caps welded in place so use your imagination...

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Time for a new cutting wheel, eh?

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I didn't have a piece of pipe or tube that would fit as the inner sleeve so I sliced a piece of tube and drove it through the new pipe extension then into each end of the steering tube then welded it all up.

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I cut the steering tube in half then cut a piece of the top tubes of the frame for the new steering tube. With an inner and outer sleeve all welded up.

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  #23  
Old 12-07-2019, 10:57 PM
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Default Burning a hole

When welding the steering tube I managed to burn a hole...

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Wow that hurt!

A piece of molten metal jumped off the steel, went through the slot in the welding table and went into my shoe next to my ankle, Hot! Hot! Hot!
Then I burned my finger when I reached in my shoe to pull the shoe away from my ankle. Yeeeeooooowwweeeee!
First time I've done that.

Which reminds me that last week when I was grinding the frame outside I was surprised at one point how much it was smoking. Then I saw that my shirt sleeve was smoldering. The sparks from grinding had started a fire. I didn't get burned that time, just a charred cuff of my work shirt.

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I put the quad back together so I can design the footboards and weld the angle framing in for them. Then cut a plywood floor to screw to the framing.

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Now to order the jackshaft kit and sprockets...

Weld on brackets for the motor controller and start designing the bodywork as well as finding a seat to use.

Hopefully one of you experienced electric motor users can review the wire connectors I listed earlier and let me know if I am understanding it correctly or not.
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  #24  
Old Yesterday, 08:06 AM
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You're lucky your shoe didn't catch on fire! Since that's a synthetic fiber shoe, it would have melted on to your foot!
Invest in some leather work boots. You can't be too safe with welding.
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  #25  
Old Yesterday, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
If I don't use a jackshaft I would run the chain (or belt) down and use spacers under the motor for tensioning.

But the speed/gearing calculator tells me I will have to use a jackshaft to keep the top speed down to where I want it to be at around 10 mph.

The jackshaft bearing plates will get welded to the swingarm in front of the shock or if necessary to the underside of the swingarm in the same location.

The motor will be oriented the other way with the output sprocket on the right side which I believe will mean the motor wiring will run as it comes with a clockwise sprocket rotation.

Now my wiring question, the connectors wired to the controller are labeled:
Hall
Throttle
Brake
Brake
3-Speed
Indicator Light
E-Lock
Brake Light
Charge
Reverse

If I am understanding what has been posted in other threads for this controller, I will use:
Hall
Throttle
3-Speed
E-Lock (for ignition key/switch)
Reverse

I do not need to do anything with the connectors marked:
Brake
Brake
Brake Light
Charge

Am I correct, and if not, what am I missing?
My batteries will be charged separately.

Your project is lookin' good

Yup, your wiring plan seems correct

IMO
Before incorporating a "jack shaft", I would try the "direct drive" approach first
& see what your actual speeds are in low, med & high

---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JTSpeedDemon View Post
You're lucky your shoe didn't catch on fire! Since that's a synthetic fiber shoe, it would have melted on to your foot!
Invest in some leather work boots. You can't be too safe with welding.
I see "boneheads" on YouTube wearin' shorts-n-flip-plops while weldin', all the time
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  #26  
Old Yesterday, 09:44 AM
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Quote:

I see "boneheads" on YouTube wearin' shorts-n-flip-plops while weldin', all the time
Less to catch fire lol!
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