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  #21  
Old 11-06-2019, 08:58 PM
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Hellion Hellion is offline
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I always use Assembly Lube for all engines regardless of size. It's sticky/tacky and stays put, especially if it will be some time before you use the engine again, or you're still in the process of slowly rebuilding a V8 with all those parts.

Regular motor oil basically seeps or drains off, but it's still the next best thing. Vaseline [petroleum jelly] is also a good substitute.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2019, 06:33 AM
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Yep, what Hellion said above. Assembly lube if possible especially on a tight overhaul or rebuild. I just used some heavy 50 weight racing oil on that engine I just went through but it was a clean up and not a rebuild so not as crucial as far as I was concerned. Lithium and STP can be used as well if you slop it on there and prelube the system . I just recommend doing an oil change as soon as possible with those methods because I dislike STP. lithium grease is decent but still...

Tinkering with these small engines is fun don't you think?

You should record a short video of it running JT.

Just so the rest of us can enjoy the sound of it as well!
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2019, 09:24 AM
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Oh yeah I'll definitely post up a YT video of the first start and me tearin' up the neighborhood!
My plan ATM is to get over to the local Pep Boys soon to get some 10W-30 synthetic to put in there. I should be ok to just fill it up with oil and start it, right?
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2019, 02:49 PM
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Cool! Got a quart of Mobil Super Synthetic 10W-30 at the local O' Reilly's for only ~$8!
Finally solved the starter clutch problem. Don't know why, but I ended up having to take 150 grit sandpaper and turn down the crankshaft a little bit for the starter clutch to fit. The starter clutch from my 3 HP didn't fit either, so I know it's not the clutch.
What I don't understand is: How can it come off and not go back on???
Weird.
Oh well, all's well that ends well.
I'm about to get back out there, fill it with oil, put the coil and carb back on, bolt it onto the kart, and let it rip!
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  #25  
Old 11-08-2019, 03:23 PM
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Here's what Briggs said. Nothing on why this engine was designed the way it was.
They got back to me pretty fast!
Note that my Haynes manual says 65 ft/lbs for the flywheel torque, but here it says 60. *shrug*


"Hello Jonathan,




Thank you for your inquiry.




The following Tech Specs and alternator specs is the info that I have available on engine model and type # 132432-0227-01




I am also attaching the Illustrated Parts List for this engine.







SKU 132432-0227-01


Technical Specifications


Model Series 1324
Displacement 206
Oil Capacity 20 oz (0.6 l)
Valve Configuration L-head
Flywheel Torque 60 lb/ft (81.5 Nm)
Governor Arm Torque 40 lb/in (4.5 Nm)
Carb Mount 75 lb/in (8.5 Nm)
Plug Gap 0.03 in (0.75 mm)
Intake Valve .005-.007 in (.13-.18 mm)
Exhaust Valve .009-.011 in (.23-.28 mm)
Idle Speed 1750
Air Gap .010-.014 in (.25-.36 mm)
Flywheel Puller Part 19069
Flywheel Holder Part 19433
Connecting Rod Torque 100 lb/in (11.5 Nm)
Sump Torque 100 lb/in (11.5 Nm)
Head Torque 140 lb/in (16.0 Nm)


Alternator Specifications


Alternator 494254
Type DC Only
Testing RPM 3600
DC Amps 1.2 adc


For additional information regarding this engine, I recommend that you talk with an authorized Briggs and Stratton Dealer for engines. Briggs and Stratton Diamond Dealers have a Master Service Technician on staff.





Dealer Locator

http://bit.ly/2AwHCu0


To order online or get part pricing:

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...hop-parts.html


If you have any further questions, please feel free
to update this e-mail, or call Briggs & Stratton Customer Support at 800-743-4115, M-F 8-5PM CST.


Regards,

Nancy


Briggs & Stratton Customer Support"
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2019, 11:15 PM
BigWes BigWes is offline
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Otherwise, she really doesn't know so she is passing the buck! Sends data from computer terminal... typical...
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  #27  
Old 11-10-2019, 08:11 AM
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Yup.
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