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Old 05-11-2013, 06:24 AM
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Default sleeve advice welding

So last night in the garage a mate turned up who i hadn't seen in a good year i asked him to give me a hand, Not much he could do but he said yes gladly

I was to cut my front hoop at 45, anyway i cut one side one way and the other the opposite way.
was not paying attention, and i usually spend more time than necessary checking bla bla bla anyway stupid error and i know not to work with a mate again as i just didn't put 120% concentration into it

So i am thinking an inner sleeve should do the job, i have some that slides in with a 0.5 mm gap between,will that be ok? Also not sure about he gap to leave as the rol bars are 3.2mm thick and the sleeve is 2.5 thick so alot to weld too. I also think the jon could maybe be at an angle to aid strength.

I have some spare tube but not much and will practice a few time its just any extra tips form you guys = minimise the practice/ Better result

CHeers troops
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:29 AM
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Pics would help here, hard to visualise. The .5mm (0.020") should be manageable, assuming it's a lap joint. Tack your way around it, then burn it in slowly with the heat down.

Every now and then I have a buddy pop in while I'm working. It annoys me that I have to stop, but I stop. Too distracting.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:51 AM
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i wont have pics till tonight took loads on my phone yesterday but cannot find the cable lol.

they would defo really help cause not sure what you mean lap joint? you mean lap one side, put extension on then lap that too? im confusing myself i think lol

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Here's a googled pic. i essentially want to do the same, extend the roll bar. Im basically doing as the pic, but i wanted to know what you think about the root gap etc it says 1/8 there but that's for a bike frame so a lot thinner.

As for mates yeh lesson learned i will have too do same from now on lol
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:14 AM
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you just need enough gap so that when you weld around it you get both the tubes and the sleeve welded solid.

1/8" would be ok but when I personally do it i go less but with the edges beveled and a little higher heat.

make sure to rosette weld it as well.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_shot View Post

they would defo really help cause not sure what you mean lap joint? you mean lap one side, put extension on then lap that too?
Yes, that's what I meant. Plug welds would generally be good, but if the tubing is not a good fit, I don't think it's the best choice.

Quote:
As for mates yeh lesson learned i will have too do same from now on lol
Yup- gets a lot worse with a couple of pops, too...
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Last edited by Doc Sprocket; 05-11-2013 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:26 AM
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I personally wouldn't do it on a roll bar

A it'll be obvious where it was done and look crap

B it is the roll bar, its your protection
I wouldn't mess with it
U will find most if not all off road clubs or venues won't let u in with a cut and joined cage

But otherwise u have the right idea
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fowler View Post
I personally wouldn't do it on a roll bar

A it'll be obvious where it was done and look crap

B it is the roll bar, its your protection
I wouldn't mess with it
U will find most if not all off road clubs or venues won't let u in with a cut and joined cage

But otherwise u have the right idea
Easy there Fowler!!! Easy!!!! Just relax a little; your blood pressure is just a little high there.

His inner sleeve is going to have 2.5 mm ( .098") thick walls with the outer tube having 3.2 mm (.125") thick walls. He lists a .5 mm gap between. That works out to .25 mm (.0098") per side. It'll take that much clearance just to be able to get the tubes together. Even if the gap is double, i.e. .5 mm (.019) per side that's still well within standards for class of fit up for welded joints.

If the OP follows the directions of the diagram he posted, the repair will be the strongest point in the hoop. And if he's careful, the appearance should be just fine as well.

It all come down to if the joint is designed properly, and welded correctly, then he won't have any problems. That, and the fact that the OP doesn't say it's his roll bar, just that it's somewhere in the front of his rig. And hey, Fowler? You don't have to be member of a club to have a buggy.....


I hope this clarifies things a little bit......

Pat
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:39 PM
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i didnt get angry just saying

if done right it will be strong
but only if done prefect

u dont have to be a member and i dont believe scott intends to be
but u dont want to eliminate your chances now

the front hoop is the front section of the roll cage
unless he is referring the nose

in which case it changes a bit
in that case
go for it just make sure its straight so the sock mounts line up

i dont get angry over the internet
no point
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:52 AM
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Lmao right now children

Well i do agree with fowlers point, in looks will be hampered in some way and the club opportunity's are hampered. It is my roll bar, the front hoop to be precise. My dilemma is It cost 110 too have 2 hoops bent, just not economical (cant think of the word i mean but u get the drift) to get another again, so doing this seems a must , but machinist makes valid point that if done correct it will be strong as heck lol,

I tried first practice tonight admittedly 1st try is a bit of a state but i did just throw it together to have the plug welds to practice, and some tube welding.

Note the state of the weld wire speed too high i reckon.
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and as for the little gap i made a spacer for taking it up out a tin lid, and the second one i tacked sits with an even space between the tubes
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when i had a good look inside it seems i have full pen with the plugs, but not have fully penetrated the inner sleeve at the main weld done at 150Amps
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:22 AM
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110 pounds to get 4 bends

That's gotta be $169 aus

U got jibbed hard

I'd be wanting 1/2 the frame done for that


Like u said wire speed may be too high

For the main weld I reckon u will need a slow hot weld
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fowler View Post
110 pounds to get 4 bends

That's gotta be $169 aus

U got jibbed hard

I'd be wanting 1/2 the frame done for that


Like u said wire speed may be too high

For the main weld I reckon u will need a slow hot weld
that does include material but i still think its sightly steep, and i used a very large engineering firm who are the nuts but i should perhaps of used a small place, would have had the same result lol

i think thats the case, i will need to slow my speed down. will update later
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