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  #21  
Old 11-17-2019, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
Hey, thanks for the follow up and the extra pics.

Might have been a factory setup, but that extra threaded adjuster section added to the brake rod (plus the spring) looks semi ghetto-rigged. Just in photo #1 it shows some 'floppyness', 'off' angles and slack in the linkage. Like someone wanted extra adjustability in the brake linkage just to complicate matters. A nice, straight actuating rod is what you want, even though the caliper and disk are fixed in place.

The adjustment is usually in the caliper itself. Your mileage may vary though.


Documentation is scarce for the Murray karts and there are no known manuals or exploded parts lists out there in cyberspace. If I had a Murray, I'd love to know what was factory original and what was a Bubba-mod...
I wish I had a manual for it too, mostly because i'm with you on wanting to know what is factory original and what has been modded.

I'm very satisfied with the brakes now! I also see why someone crashed then sold the first Murray I bought. The brakes must not have worked good enough for them. I guess most people nowadays aren't mechanically inclined enough to service their machines and get them back to 100%.

To me its just nuts and bolts, if a random person can build it in a factory with little to no experience, I can surely fix it!
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  #22  
Old 11-17-2019, 11:12 PM
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you know the model number of your murray.. there are quite a few manuals out there..

going by this thread
they look like some of the GT60501s to me
so here are the partslist-manuals for those
(look.. springs )

'sid
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File Type: pdf gt60501x92a.pdf (465.1 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf gt60501x92b.pdf (484.0 KB, 1 views)
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  #23  
Old 11-17-2019, 11:56 PM
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Yeah you're right Sid. There are a few out there.

Forgot about this site with manuals. Was afraid it was long gone: https://www.partsandservice.com/html/Murray/go/



The plot thickens...

EDIT: Sid beat me to it. Should've refreshed the page before posting.

Turns out the spring plus threaded adjuster on the brake rod would appear to be a factory thing.

However, the OP has made his brake work with the band-aid he made. Might even be a better, more positive working brake in the long run. Who knows?

Pic here:
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  #24  
Old 11-18-2019, 01:03 PM
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Thanks guys! Both of your pictures have the same model # as my Murray (60501x92).

What makes it the "A" or "B" model?

I found a 5/16" thick x 4ft long steel rod at Ace for when my copper cable gives out. I'll be able to make at least two brake rods out of it

I also found a piece of 18" x 13" 22ga. welding sheet at Ace for a replacement skid plate for my other Murray that needs it. Its just a hair thinner than the original plate but still looks good to me! I might have to add another sheet to stiffen it up if needed
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  #25  
Old 11-18-2019, 01:06 PM
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i wonder if my cousin would trade me his murray? that skid plate is kool. you gonna make fenders for it too
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2019, 01:18 PM
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Yep. I plan on making the fenders out of cheap rubber/plastic mats from Amazon for $14 a piece. The plate was only $10 and the brake rod was $5 if anyone wants to know
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Old 11-18-2019, 04:00 PM
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The plate is mounted! It took about an hour to drill the holes and slot them so all 5 bolts would fit with no issues
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  #28  
Old 11-18-2019, 05:01 PM
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Is that sheet metal made of steel or aluminum? Can't tell. Needs some paint either way.

I wouldn't trust my brakes to some copper wire or whatever it is you got there. Too soft a metal. But then again braking is for sissies. I'm more concerned with acceleration and breaking the sound barrier.

Why does one kart have hose clamps on the tie rod ends?
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  #29  
Old 11-18-2019, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellion View Post
Is that sheet metal made of steel or aluminum? Can't tell. Needs some paint either way.

I wouldn't trust my brakes to some copper wire or whatever it is you got there. Too soft a metal. But then again braking is for sissies. I'm more concerned with acceleration and breaking the sound barrier.

Why does one kart have hose clamps on the tie rod ends?
Its made of 22 gauge steel. I'll throw some paint on it when i'm tired of it being shiny lol. I want to find some paint that was matched to the green on the kart without taking the whole kart to town in the back of my truck.

I'm glad you brought the hose clamps up. They are they for safety reasons after one of the rods (that I thought was tight) popped out of the tie rod end and I lost steering. The hiemjoints are still tight, I just had to squeeze the two halves together, thread the rod back in, realign the kart, clamp the ends down on the rod, and secure the jamnuts with grey RTV.

The clamps have helped a bunch and I feel much safer with them! I havent had any issues since and i've been testing them hard.

This all happened at night while I was puttering around the yard with a new 1000 lumen LED bycicle light I put on it.

The caged Murray needs all new tie rod assemblies because there's so much slop in the steering
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2019, 07:28 PM
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Uhhh sounds sketchy
I'd rather see them replaced with new ones IIWY
(machined ones for example instead of the pressed ssheet)

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Old 11-18-2019, 08:53 PM
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I'm getting a new set for the caged kart to tighten up its steering. If the uncaged kart gives me anymore issues, I wont hesitate to buy another set. Its $40 before shipping for two 12" long x 3/8" tie rods with pressed hiemjoints and jamnuts. I figure the machined ones are out of my budget range.

The pressed ones won't come apart with those fat clamps tightened down hard
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  #32  
Old 12-02-2019, 11:05 AM
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If the brake is only "just now" fully engaged just before the pedal hits the pedal stop, I wonder if the whole time you were talking about brake action with the pedal being stopped short by the pedal stop. If the linkage between the pedal and the caliper is set up with too short of a draw on the caliper before the pedal hits the stop, then that should have been the first thing you adjusted. The heavy spring that was pulling on the caliper lever was supposed to protect against the lever being broken off by having TOO MUCH draw on it. In a perfect world that spring wouldn't start to stretch until the lever had already traveled to its maximum. I'd try putting it back on and testing if it starts to stretch before the wheels skid. If it does then it's too weak, and you were right to remove it. For safety against my own big foot I'd want to replace the spring (not just discard) with one that allows enough travel of the caliper lever to skid the wheels, but will stretch before the lever snaps off. Adjustment of your linkage to that ideal would follow.
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  #33  
Old 12-02-2019, 06:00 PM
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The reason I took the spring off was because the spring would stretch almost all the way when the pedal hit the stop. My dad and I decided that solid linkage would work better.

I did keep both springs and soaked a towelette in Evaporust then wrapped it tightly around one of the springs. I was thinking about welding part of the spring so it wouldn't stretch as far but still had some give in it. It may not be a good idea so i'll just soak it for now
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Old 12-03-2019, 10:35 AM
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Default Evaporust? Yummmm.....

Off topic, but that Evaporust you soaked with.... Never heard of it, and it's a very interesting name, want to know more. Assuming some marketing deception there, as iron oxide doesn't evaporate, but what is the final result you get with it? Any part of the fluid evaporate, like maybe if there was ketone in it? What happens to the rust, does it dissolve into the chemicals and soak into the rag? Does all liquid evaporate and leave a powder of rust behind? Oh, and how would you compare it to Naval Jelly, which has never been helpful to me?
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  #35  
Old 12-03-2019, 12:08 PM
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I know evaporust only from the HandToolRescue yt channel ...
and frankly I like what I see (it being capable of)

essentially a rusted part in (doesn't matter much how badly)
and rag wiped clean (well just dry actually) after soaking.
leaves a slightly dark patina on high carbon steel if I interpret that correctly.

I think HTR once talked about it (when they sponsored him for the first time I guess)
but I didn't cared too much about the details tbh..

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Old 12-03-2019, 09:59 PM
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Default Not welding any more springs....

About that possibility of welding part of your spring, I hope you don't. Had some experience with that on the springer monoshock front end I built, and angered myself.
The (quite heavy) 5" long springs were identical, and the upper needed to be only about half of the lower, so I compressed some turns together with vise grips and welded them as one. In the end, my impatience should have been getting fixed, not the spring. The time spent to find and acquire a spring that would have been correct as bought would have been a much better choice than the time to modify and weld a spring that could never be truly correct.
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  #37  
Old 12-05-2019, 08:48 AM
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I havent had any of the fluid evaporate yet. The container with evaporust is sealed tight. The spring doesnt have any dark areas yet and its been soaking for a week now.

I don't plan on doing any welding on the spring, it was just an idea.

I have some before and after pictures of what evaporust can do to an old metal locknut. I'll post em so madprofessor can see

After I put anything in evaporust, I then soak it in good 3-in-1 oil so the metal doesnt rust again. Its worked every time so far! It made my throttle rod springs work smoother and not be so stiff from rust, i'll include those as well

Dont mind the rigged cable, I fixed it by holding the cable sheath down with two small cable clamps. The throttle works a lot better and no more "deadzone" when you first push the pedal

I believe the rust dissolves and soaks into the rag or liquid. When i dumped out my first batch of evaporust (it wouldnt de-rust anymore), the liquid was pretty much black and had small particles of rust in the bottom of the container. It started out as a clear-ish liquid with a slight yellow tint, it has a funny smell too
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Screenshot_20191205-085921.jpg   Screenshot_20191205-085933.jpg  

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