Go Back   DIY Go Kart Forum > Building Plans And Advice > Photo Gallery & Project Log

Notices

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #41  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:38 PM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

proceeded to assemble the motor.
Attached Thumbnails
9EBBAFC4-ECAE-4575-9F63-0087CF63D6BE.jpg   324F8AB4-6E44-42FE-B4A8-1483FCCBBC17.jpg  

  #42  
Old 11-03-2018, 12:39 AM
bob58o's Avatar
bob58o bob58o is offline
Sick, Tired, and in Debt
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Under the Rothschild Whip
Posts: 7,519
Thanks: 3,228
Thanked 2,252 Times in 1,742 Posts
Default

What am I looking at here?
If that is a scratch in the rod cap, I'd say that rod is junk.
Attached Thumbnails
rod cap.jpg  
__________________
History doesn't repeat but it rhymes Name a successful fiat currency in the last 5k years
  #43  
Old 11-03-2018, 08:42 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob58o View Post
What am I looking at here?
If that is a scratch in the rod cap, I'd say that rod is junk.

This is done to supply oil to the central chute. I agree that it looks a bit awful, but we will try it out. Now the piston group with the rod is lightened, the inertial loads hope that they will decrease. Thank you for your recommendations.

Yesterday I washed all the details, today I collected the lower part. I also want to move the coil to install the ignition at 28 degrees, to make the bracket-transfer.
Just ordered a motorcycle motor oil 4t 10w30.
Attached Thumbnails
xIDvVBxtTcM.jpg   Hs_3AqAv7hk.jpg  

  #44  
Old 11-03-2018, 03:48 PM
bob58o's Avatar
bob58o bob58o is offline
Sick, Tired, and in Debt
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Under the Rothschild Whip
Posts: 7,519
Thanks: 3,228
Thanked 2,252 Times in 1,742 Posts
Default

Instead of moving the coil, you could rotate the flywheel on the crankshaft. This can be done by installing the flywheel without a key. Many people prefer to run without a key. Use lapping (grinding) compound to mate the crankshaft to the flywheel taper, rotate the flywheel to the position you desire, and torque down the nut while making sure the flywheel doesn't rotate in relation to the crankshaft. It is important to clean the flywheel and crankshaft very well to remove all the grinding compound before installing the flywheel. The same type of grinding compound used for the valves also works on the flywheel.

Another option is to file the top part of the key. It is easy for me to purchase an "offset" key here in the States, but it is not difficult to make one either. Every 0.010" (0.25mm) filed off = 1.3 degrees of timing advance. So around 1mm filed off the key is about 5 degrees of timing advance.
Attached Images
  
__________________
History doesn't repeat but it rhymes Name a successful fiat currency in the last 5k years
  #45  
Old 11-08-2018, 06:22 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Thanks bob58o! So we will do it, I plan to set 28-30 degrees ignition advance.

Can you please tell me if I can find the characteristics of the standard camshaft gx200? We want

INTAKE
OPEN: CLOSE:

EXHAUST
OPEN: CLOSE: ?
  #46  
Old 11-09-2018, 10:16 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Today, when assembling the head, I discovered that I have different springs, one 29mm another 30.5mm.

I had doubts, it seems the spring 29mm - weak weakened.
What should be the size of the spring? According to my information, the height should be 31mm.
Attached Thumbnails
063FF120-564C-4D25-BF79-51C4CC460B43.jpg  
  #47  
Old 11-11-2018, 07:44 PM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Assembling the head, as well as delivered winter tires.
Attached Thumbnails
c0Ale25Eg8Y.jpg   rUxu6jUd2_Q.jpg  

The Following User Says Thank You to chados For This Useful Post:
landuse (11-11-2018)
  #48  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:24 AM
bob58o's Avatar
bob58o bob58o is offline
Sick, Tired, and in Debt
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Under the Rothschild Whip
Posts: 7,519
Thanks: 3,228
Thanked 2,252 Times in 1,742 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chados View Post

Can you please tell me if I can find the characteristics of the standard camshaft gx200? We want

INTAKE
OPEN: CLOSE:

EXHAUST
OPEN: CLOSE: ?
That's a tough one. I haven't been able to locate the specifications myself. BUT the closest thing to a stock camshaft that I can find the specifications for is a CL1 grind camshaft. It has the same lift and duration of a stock cam, but I suspect the cam timing is retarded a bit (meaning the valves open and close later) to push the peak HP to a higher RPM range.

Specs for CL1 grind...
Target (MAXIMUM) RPM = 5200 - 5800 RPM
Ignition Timing = 32 degrees Before Top Dead Center

Intake Open (from seat) = 43.0 degrees Before Top Dead Center
Intake Open (0.050" Lift or 1.27mm) = 0.9 degrees Before Top Dead Center
Intake Close (to seat) = 76.5 degrees After Bottom Dead Center
Intake Close (0.050" Lift or 1.27mm) = 37.7 degrees After Bottom Dead Center
Intake Lift = 0.224"
Intake Duration (0.050") = 219.0 degrees
Intake Center Line = 108.5 degrees After Top Dead Center

Exhaust Open (from Seat) = 80.5 degrees Before Bottom Dead Center
Exhaust Open (0.050" Lift or 1.27mm) = 39.9 degrees Before Bottom Dead Center
Exhaust Close (to seat) = 41.0 degrees After Top Dead Center
Exhaust Close (0.050" Lift or 1.27mm) = 2.2 degrees After Top Dead Center
Exhaust Lift = 0.231"
Exhaust Duration (0.050") = 222.5 degrees
Exhaust Center Line = 110.0 degrees Before Top Dead Center



A CL2 grind cam shaft is retarded about 4 degrees from the CL1. Otherwise, it has the same lift, duration, and lobe separation angle as a CL1 and stock camshaft. The Intake Center Line on the CL2 is 112.0 degrees After Top Dead Center. The Exhaust Center Line on the CL2 is 105.5 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Retarding the cam those ~4 degrees moves the target (Maximum) RPM to 6200 - 6800 RPM.

A CL3 grind camshaft is retarded another 2 degrees from the CL2. Lift, Duration, and Lobe Separation Angle are the same as a stock, CL1, and CL2 camshaft. Intake Center Line is 114.0 degrees After Top Dead Center. Exhaust Center Line is 103.5 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Target Maximum RPM for a CL3 is 6400 - 6900 RPM.

All three of those cams recommend 32 degrees Before Top Dead Center for Ignition Timing.

Specs from the manufacturer can be found Dynocams website.
https://www.dynocams.com/item/cl1/
https://www.dynocams.com/catalog/doc...ynoCamsCL1.pdf
Attached Thumbnails
cl1.jpg  
__________________
History doesn't repeat but it rhymes Name a successful fiat currency in the last 5k years
  #49  
Old 11-13-2018, 10:43 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Thanks, I will study the information. so far we have put a standard shaft for running the engine. Today I installed the cylinder head, adjusted the valve, installed the coil, the casing, and also made the key -1.1mm. left to do crankcase ventilation.
Attached Thumbnails
6A694837-E3C7-4CBE-B540-1AC808B2EC77.jpg   FBDDE243-C4D0-491F-B272-4D8680AA6CAE.jpg  

1DE5BB90-EB58-4056-87C5-BCB62DFCF89C.jpg   BAA195D8-70CD-4713-9D51-C724BDE50F6A.jpg  

The Following User Says Thank You to chados For This Useful Post:
landuse (11-14-2018)
  #50  
Old 11-14-2018, 12:38 AM
landuse's Avatar
landuse landuse is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Posts: 17,547
Thanks: 2,249
Thanked 3,527 Times in 2,880 Posts
Default

Looking good!
  #51  
Old 11-15-2018, 08:02 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

today got motor oil.
Attached Thumbnails
6AE6CDF4-EDC7-4AAC-A51B-8F246C8105E4.jpg  
  #52  
Old 11-18-2018, 08:32 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Today, made the first launch of the motor.

The Following User Says Thank You to chados For This Useful Post:
landuse (11-19-2018)
  #53  
Old 11-28-2018, 08:37 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Bought studded ice tires. 60 spikes in the wheel.
Attached Thumbnails
61AD3AF9-E27D-4C61-8391-027ED42DD049.jpg   941B97DE-3C44-45A5-B88E-745EC4AB5BDC.jpg  

  #54  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:12 AM
karl's Avatar
karl karl is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: North east Ohio
Posts: 1,448
Thanks: 104
Thanked 301 Times in 244 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chados View Post
Bought studded ice tires. 60 spikes in the wheel.
Those are awseome! I need a set!

Probally not cheap. Maybe should just stick with carlise x-tracs.
The Following User Says Thank You to karl For This Useful Post:
chados (11-28-2018)
  #55  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:54 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by karl View Post
Those are awseome! I need a set!

Probally not cheap. Maybe should just stick with carlise x-tracs.
In Russia, a set of tires costs $ 87.
  #56  
Old 12-10-2018, 09:23 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Hello dear forum members! I havenít written anything for a long time, I was busy with the main work, for the past time, I changed the new tank and put it on my feet, installed winter tires, almost fixed the pump, I still need to supply fuel. I will try to deliver the weekend and arrange a test drive.
Attached Thumbnails
D93040D3-92D6-41F3-8F2B-7D6204373FEA.jpg  
  #57  
Old 12-10-2018, 11:49 AM
LightningTeg's Avatar
LightningTeg LightningTeg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 76
Thanks: 9
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Studded snow tires sounds like a good time in the winter
  #58  
Old 12-11-2018, 12:35 AM
landuse's Avatar
landuse landuse is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pietermaritzburg, South Africa
Posts: 17,547
Thanks: 2,249
Thanked 3,527 Times in 2,880 Posts
Default

Those tyres look so cool mounted to the kart. How well do they work?
  #59  
Old 12-11-2018, 08:58 AM
Kartorbust's Avatar
Kartorbust Kartorbust is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 3,043
Thanks: 631
Thanked 801 Times in 674 Posts
Default

Frozen lake racing looks to be in your future. I'm mildly jealous.
__________________
In the age of information, ignorance is a choice.
  #60  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:02 AM
chados chados is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Siberia, Russia
Posts: 68
Thanks: 16
Thanked 17 Times in 13 Posts
Default

Today completed the work on karting.
Installed the necessary parts and protection from snow. Made a test run, winter tires work well, but you need to adjust the carburetor.


Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:40 PM.