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Old 01-16-2020, 12:42 PM
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Default VW type 1 Stub axles

So I'm trying to weigh the costs of buying 2 stub axles for my project or getting a set machined. What I have mainly found are just the out stub axles that fit the 1971-1980 VW Super Beetle (I have axles for this generation) https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...xoC8bcQAvD_BwE

However the problem I'm is trying to find the wheel bearing and hub assembly. So my thoughts had been for several months to over a year are to have stub axles made, but with a 1" keyed shaft and threaded so I can use a go kart 1" hub with a 4on4 bolt pattern, then run a 4 bolt pillow block bearing in line of having a proper hub and bearing assembly. It's easy enough to find stuff to go from Type 1 to Type 2 or type 1 to 930 CV axles, since Type 2 and 930 have much more longer travel vs the type 1, I just didn't want to spend $200 per axle for the 930 and the type 1 will work well for my needs anyway.

So any thoughts on this would be great. The spool half will be out sourced to a machine shop, since the hub flanges for the inner on the VW beetle were attached to the transaxle.
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:26 PM
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1303 that is, right?

If so everything you need is on ebay (germany mostly I'm afraid)
searchterms (1303, Radlager, Radnabe)
means [model#, wheel bearing, wheel hub]

930 and Fuchs is IMHO the way to go really.. but sure the extra is ...uhm... extra

There are several shops selling spares as well.
since it itself should be fully compatible with the Mexico Beetle I'm fairly certain you can find a closer source than germany.. but don't ask me for spanish search terms

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Old 01-16-2020, 10:25 PM
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Seeing a lot for newer Audi and Golf GTI parts. I'll keep searching though. Its frustrating, with how popular it has been to convert a VW Beetle of this generation to a Baja Bug or even build a buggy from the ground up using these parts, you'd think these parts would be easily found aftermarket. If the Prosche 911 axles were around the same price of these ones, I would have bought those in a heart beat. Infinitely easier to find stub axles and wheel hub assembly, much more travel out of them. Oh well. Live and learn I suppose. I'll keep searching. Thanks for the Part number and what words to use. So glad I can translate to English, I only know maybe a dozen words in German...not even enough to speak a sentence.
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Old 01-17-2020, 09:59 PM
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Starting to look like that the 1303 hub and wheel bearing set are a rare item on ebay. There are type 1 to Porsche 930 (911) stub axles on Amazon and elsewhere. Looks like that might be my best option to find an OE type setup, because 930 hubs and bearing assemblies are easier to come by. I'll keep searching for both, may get lucky.
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:41 PM
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Not sure if this will fit (website doesn't say in the description), however it is what I'm looking for, but good lord, it's not cheap...https://www.jbugs.com/product/16-2510-1.html Not sure if it's for the Transporter, Baja, etc or what axle style it is for. But it is what I'm looking for.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:21 PM
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1968-up beetle is irs. Not the years you stated sir.

1967 and down were all swing axle.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:50 PM
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with a BMW bolthole pattern? 5x120 is BMW..
Porsche would be 5x130 ..
VW beetle 4x130 or 5x205 pre '67 or such

no wonder it's expensive if it's a custom made part (and an odd one at that)

you remember that no beetle rolled out the factory with rear disc brakes..
and thus all rear hubs are technically "drum brakes", no?

a rear drum brake costs ~40 € around here.. (bearings a hair less)
http://www.vag24.de/epages/61870722....ccc_113501615j
so that'd be less than 100 for a set of two
just over 150 incl the bearings.

I assume you also asked for the bearing flanges (which is in fact not a cheap part)
but 120 bucks a pair is doable (new reproduction units; new originals 210).
BUT since IIUYC you're not restoring a beetle.. any bearing retainer will do for you,
since the bearing is just some standard size, any for the same size bearing will fit your needs.

back to the hub-part
I think the splines are identical to the Typ3 hub however..
http://www.vag24.de/Radnabe-Typ-3-hinten-ab-8/65
the splines for sure are identical to a Porsche 944 so it's rear hubs do fit!

Sorry about those random german webpages... (ignore them if you wish)
here's one you should visit however:
(yes it's for the bearing cap.. the first rear axle link that popped up)
https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts...kel-kafer.html

first: it's volkswagen not any third party those are the original parts and nothing but
second and likely almost even more important:
you can change the language (if it doesn't automatically) so you can read what you see.
and third: it does provide exploded views of the rear axle and you get a better idea what's what in case some technical terms are translated awkwardly
and the tab "find related products via drawing" helps a ton of tracing everything down

I'm fairly certain any official VAG dealer in the US is able to order parts for you there too
if you do not want to take care of shipping and import on your own.

If you trace down anything you like/want and the seller isn't willing to ship overseas,
or you have issues with communication, just let me know.

'sid
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Last edited by itsid; 01-21-2020 at 12:43 AM. Reason: typ0
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:43 PM
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So the 4th link you sent Alex, with the pictures, it showed what I needed and I'm glad I'm not going crazy, just really ignorant. When I get a chance, I'll try asking a VW dealer to see if they can order stuff (may try my work too and see if my employee discount will do anything). Thanks, that actually does help me out a lot!

I didn't think that the wheel hub was integral of the drum brakes, I've only known like one vehicle, I think Ford Focus is like that. Though my plan was to run a single disc brake on the spool, I wonder if I should just do dual drums instead, though no idea how well they'll do for off road use. But by that same token, people are able to do disc brake conversions...so I'll have to look at what parts are used to do that. But thanks again, I feel really uneducated on this.

---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

Well found out the disc conversion. Was only planning on running 3 brakes (front and spool), but this should help me more in the long run, especially if I choose a more powerful engine. I guess what I was expecting to find was a more modern or at least US design wheel hub that was threaded for lug studs and not pressed for wheel studs. I can find different adapters to fit more common bolt patterns for wheels. https://www.jbugs.com/product/22-287...BoC2BIQAvD_BwE So now all I need custom made are the inner flanges for the spool, but that will not be a problem.
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:34 PM
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Hi @kartorbust
Interesting thread here... I have been doing similar research for a couple of months since I needed to upgrade the monoshock rear in the first kart I built so my rear axle would be wide enough.

...so I have read in another forum where the goal is to use 930 axles and CV joints because they are heavy duty, and offer more angle on the CV joints. There are some builds using the Dodge Intrepid front hubs with 28 splines and the 930 CV axles to the spool. It appears they have to make the spool to fit the 930 CV bolt pattern. The Intrepid has a 5 lug pattern and some posted that a John Deere wheel will fit. There is a link for a custom 12" wheel with the same bolt pattern, so there are options, but not sure how much $$$ since I am just researching and making my list.

I do not have a lathe and hope to build an IRS from a combination of off the shelf parts, but it appears to be a hard recipe to find. I want a side by side with ,=50" width, but if it is wider, I would just ride in a place with no restrictions, but sxs is a must.
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Old 01-26-2020, 10:06 PM
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I've seen some off road builds that use a slightly more redneck though highly effective approach... Chop the axles. Cut the shafts, use the inner half from the beetle (or whatever) and the outer half from a donor. Bevel to a point, slide a sleeve on one side, drop it in a jig and weld the axle, grind flush, slide the sleeve over and weld it. Quite effective for splicing mismatched axles and lengthening/shortening axles. It takes a bit of finesse, but it does work.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:00 AM
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The reason I didn't use 930 axles is cost. At $200 each, it's a hard pill to swallow. I chose the Type 1 axles kind of out of ignorance to the other options. I though that most who built Baja bugs were using the original axles and not any of the others. Plus, I do have a width limit to be under of 74". Using any of the others, may put me at that width. Plus, trying to find a trailer to fit it would be a pain.

Type 1 axles should hold up to around 80hp without too many issues. A Yamaha Phazer is about 80hp and most street bikes under 1000cc are under 100hp anyway, so I'll have no issues there. If I need more articulation, I could go with type 2 cups apparently, but those use a slightly larger diameter, so different stub axles and flanges will be needed.

I'm still learning this stuff. But one thing I'm definitely doing differently than what some others do, jackshaft gear reduction. If I end up with a bike engine instead of using the V-twin, since this is ending up being a two seater in a similar styling to the Chenowth FAV but smaller, I'm going to run the smallest engine sprocket (13t) to a 28t input, 13 output, to a 60t. I've seen some people struggle using the 13 or higher to a 60 to get moving. Have to remember these are twice or three times the weight of the bikes the engines came from.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:08 AM
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when i get a welder im going to a junk yard with a battery angle grinder only lol oh and a hammer and im leaving with a arms hubs and coilovers including all brackets
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:23 AM
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You'll be run out of every junkyard I've ever been to. They only allow impacts and hand tools. No grinders, torches, hacksaw, etc.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:36 AM
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I can see why!
A teenager......in a junkyard.......with a hammer and a grinder.......
I can think of a LOT of damage I could do like that!(not that I WOULD do that, it's just the junkyard owners don't know if you would.

And actually. if you don't know EXACTLY what you're doing, Trevor, stay FAAR away from automotive suspension parts. If you take things apart in the wrong sequence without the proper tools, compressed springs can fly, with enough speed and energy to KILL you, or the car could tip or otherwise lean enough to trap you underneath.
Note - CAN, NOT WILL.

Maybe I came off a bit serious, but please don't do anything dumb, Budget!
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:52 AM
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Struts, torsion bars are not to be trifled with. If you need to replace a spring for a strut, there's a very good reason why we call the spring compressor the "window maker". This is why I am buying some of my parts online. Safer and I'll be getting new or remanufactured parts. If you do suspension work, you'll need a jack and jack stands. Every U-Pull yard I've been to, the vehicles are precariously mounted on steel wheels along the frame or pinch welds. Not exactly car lift steady. Most are either on dirt or sand or both. Just don't do it. Plus usually you need to be at least 16 and even then, 18 and up.

Just because you're on a budget, does not mean you should cut corners by smacking or cutting stuff off. Struts from a car are not that suitable for karts or buggies. Just because CarsandCameras used the back half of a Miata for their CrossKart does not mean that you should.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kartorbust View Post
You'll be run out of every junkyard I've ever been to. They only allow impacts and hand tools. No grinders, torches, hacksaw, etc.
Same here in my experience. No hot work, and no cutting. There's one by me that has an old Astro van with solid forklift tires that they've outfitted with a winch, torches, grinders and a buzz saw, and they will come do any cutting you need done... For a fee. Like if you need a whole front clip or whatever.

But as a rule, no hot work or cutting allowed by customers for liability and preservation of the parts you aren't buying.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:31 PM
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In case anyone is curious or finds this thread in the future and wants to use VW bug parts on a buggy or sand rail and want rear brakes only, this hub just needs bearings ($25 charge to have the maker do it) and it'll go in place of the brake drum/rotor. https://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac407004.html
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:11 PM
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What exactly is the end game?
There is a company in Australia called barracuda or something (on phone )
https://www.ebay.com/i/183315745383?...BoCne8QAvD_BwE
Plans parts and ideas on mid sized irs buggies using chains, disk break...something different for ideas....lots of $$! $!!
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:32 PM
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Company is called Edge Products. I've known about them for a while. The only 3 things they have on there that I have interest in:

Taipan II
Sidewinder
Trax III

The other buggies they have are way to expensive for me to want to build. My end goal is to have a 2 seater that is no wider than 60" outside of each tire and can ferry myself, a passenger, and other gear across the lake or woods for hunting, or to just mess around with on ATV trails. I'm taking design inspiration from Cheowth's circa 1980s US military F.A.V, but instead with a motorcycle or snowmobile engine. I was going to use a Briggs Vanguard V-Twin, but to accomplish what I want out of this thing, I need a larger engine that'll last the abuse. A modified Briggs would have a short life, unless it had a lot of rebuilds I think. I'm planning on running a deeper gearing than what some do. Most of what I've seen, people run a 60 tooth on the spool and 13 or 14 on the engine without any gear reduction. I'm going to run a jackshaft with a 13 on the engine, 36 input 12 tooth out and 60 on the spool, 13.8:1, not including any overdrive or transmission gears.

I like the F.A.V design a bit more because it uses classic Bug design aspects, which I've always liked.
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Old Yesterday, 12:53 PM
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So I'm back on the prowl again. Recently I was suggested to use S10 axles instead of my Type 1 because they have much greater angles to work (claimed 30 degrees vs 12 of the Type 1). I looked into them and, at by hose angles, boots start to rip fast and they prefer around 25 degrees. Sounds fine to me. On the dense for now. Been looking at the Type 4 axles from the 924 which are about the same price as the S10 and have 22 degrees of angle. Plus there are stub axles that convert from the Type 2/Type 4 to the Type 1. Now one thing I did find out is, there's 2 different sizes of the Type 4 as far as length is concerned. Ones from a 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo are 16 1/8" end to end, which is roughly how long my type 1 are. Then there are ones from the 1986 944, which measure 21 5/16". S10 axles measure 19 1/2" for what it's worth.

So with that in mind, I'm going to look more into the Type 4 axles and sell the Type 1 I have once I have the new if I go down that road.
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