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  #21  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:49 PM
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Default #21 Speed sensor, rear axle and brake line.

I had to fabricate a speed sensor using the bits from the universal instrument cluster kit. It's designed to mount the sensor at a 90 degree angle to the drive sprocket, but that won't work in my case so I cut the magnet out of the aluminum housing it was in, then drilled a shaft collar I got from Tractor Supply and epoxied the magnet into it, I was then able to install the rear axle and mount my sensor longitudinally for a much more compact arrangement. I then trimmed and re-flared the brake line to fit the brake caliper.
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  #22  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:54 PM
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Default #22 Roll cage install

The back axle looks really good I think! I then installed the roll cage, fuel tank, oil cooler lines (with a temp sensor for the fan) and the GPS module.Oh, and lets not forget a "Mr. Fusion" LOL!
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  #23  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:32 PM
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Default #23 Air shifter bits!

I had to make a steel plate to hold all the bits that make the air shifter work. There is a 1lb, DOT certified CO2 bottle, a compressor control switch that kicks the compressor on at 150psi, then cuts it off at 180psi. A regulator that drops the pressure down to whatever I find yields the best shift, then 2 12v shift solenoids, one for upshift, and the other for downshift. These will be controlled by 2 buttons on the steering wheel. As you can see, while the setup is really compact, it still eats up a lot of space at the back of the kart. That's as far as I've made it thus far. Stay tuned as I am awaiting delivery of all the electrical bits that I will need to wire this beast up. Hopefully I will be able to fire the engine this weekend!
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  #24  
Old 02-13-2019, 04:47 AM
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Very interesting build. I am putting a Honda 750 into my kart so I will be watching yours with great enthusiasm. I had thought about an air shifter but It would be hard, if not impossible to find neutral. For safety reasons I wired mine so it could only be started in neutral. Plus all the extra room you need for the compressor and the cost (I'm on a budget) just didn't work for me. Cant wait to see chapter 2 of this build. How much travel do you get out of that rack?
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  #25  
Old 02-13-2019, 05:14 AM
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You are right, an air shifter install is complicated, and you also need that engine kill box wired in so you don't grenade your transmission shifting under power. Another thing is that the guy at SAE Outlaw Performance tried to talk me out of using compressed air. Said I should have used CO2. I agree that would make for a lighter install not having to install a big compressor, but he said the compressor would not be able to keep up under track shifting conditions. I work IT in a manufacturing facility, and spoke with the mechanical maintenance guys (they work with pneumatic actuators on the factory floor), and they seem to think I should be okay since my tank pressure is 2x3 times the regulated pressure so I'm giving it a try. Film at 11 LOL! I may still have to convert it over, who knows.
If you keep the regulated pressure just low enough to give you a good shift, you shouldn't have any trouble finding neutral. When you run the pressure real high is when it becomes hard. I like your idea of a neutral safety. That will be easy using the Katana's existing neutral safety switch.
The steering rack I bought fits a Yerf-Dog cart, and is almost a full turn lock to lock, and I was lucky it works out perfectly on my cart with the original spindles. Not so sure on the new ones as the arms are shorter. I may need to put stops in to prevent the tires scrubbing on the frame. I'll know more soon as I get to that part of the build.
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  #26  
Old 02-13-2019, 07:19 AM
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This is epic.
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  #27  
Old 02-13-2019, 06:01 PM
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Thanks Sil! Never had one of my projects called Epic!
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  #28  
Old 02-13-2019, 06:03 PM
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Default #24 Mounting the battery

So I realized that everything but the connectors on the donor bikes wiring harness is pretty much useless! So as I wait for all my electrical wiring bits to arrive that I ordered, I made a mount for the battery. Not a lot of room on the drivers side due to all the air shifter bits, so I mounted it on the passenger side of the motor.
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2019, 07:45 PM
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Default #25 Controls and such...

I wanted to use that racing switch panel, but I just couldn't find a good place for it and a good way to mount it along with the air gauge and the A/F ratio gauge. I managed to compress everything down into a 4x4 gray PVC box. The Red switch is the master, the middle one is the ignition, and the right toggle is for the air compressor, then of course the starter button. The one from the switch panel was just too big and unwieldy.
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  #30  
Old 02-17-2019, 11:26 PM
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Default #26 Wiring...

This weekend I started wiring up the kart. Boy what a challenge that turned out to be. The basic stuff wasn't so bad, like the fuse block, and the fan, and air shifter compressor relays, but when I got to wiring up the ignitor, the data logger, instrument cluster, and kill box for the air shifter things got complicated really quick. But even though I wasn't able to test run the engine like I had hoped, tomorrow is another day!
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  #31  
Old 02-20-2019, 10:35 AM
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Default #27 Exhaust

I was originally going to try and put a chamber muffler on the kart, but it would require too many tight bends so I opted for a short straight pipe with a slash cut on the end. I will jet the carb's accordingly.
I also welded an O2 sensor bung into the pipe for the AF meter/data collector.
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  #32  
Old 02-20-2019, 07:44 PM
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Default #28 Mounting the ignition coils, tune up, and ignition test.

Todays engineering challenge was to figure out a way to mount the ignition coils. Now before you go "Pssssh!" That's easy!, remember that something like this may be difficult for those with lesser "MacGyver" skills than ourselves

No pics for it, but I tested my wiring for the ignition system. Unfortunately, I have a problem somewhere as I have proper voltage at the coils, and at the ignitor main feed, but I have no spark. There are a bunch of wires on the ignitor that went to the kick stand safety switch, I think that's where my problem is so tomorrow I'll have some troubleshooting to do.
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  #33  
Old 02-21-2019, 12:48 PM
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Very impressive. This guy is jealous.
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  #34  
Old 02-21-2019, 01:00 PM
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Put a secret kick-stand on it. Problem solved.
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  #35  
Old 02-21-2019, 06:20 PM
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Default Kickstand

Well there Sil, I figured it out finally. After browsing the Internet for hours, I found that there is a 100 ohm resistor built in to the factory ignition switch that the ECU has to see before it will allow the engine to start (it's an anti-theft feature) If you look at the schematic, it shows the orange with red stripe wire being grounded by the ignition switch when it's turned on, but does not indicate the presence of the resistor. That's what was throwing me off. **** thing thought I was trying to hot wire it! Now I have to wait until my next Amazon order arrives this Saturday. Hopefully THIS weekend, I will be able to fire the engine up! Stay tuned!
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  #36  
Old 02-21-2019, 07:14 PM
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This is awesome. I’m already looking forward to the ride videos. I’ve had to deal with resistor nonsense on GM VATS (I’m a mechanic by trade) and know how much fun that can be.
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  #37  
Old 02-21-2019, 07:30 PM
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Default Flyin Reply

Thanks there "Flyin"
Oh I remember the VATS system. I was a wrench too back in the day. Now I do it as a hobby on the side. I fix folks cars, video the repair and post it to my YouTube channel "MacGyvers Workshop" The ride videos should be really cool as I plan to superimpose the datalogger info into the video. Makes the build a royal P.I.A. as it feels like i'm wiring an F16 LOL! but it will be worth it.
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  #38  
Old 02-22-2019, 05:22 PM
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Default #29 Carb re-jetting and tuning

Another major challenge! After not being able to get the carbs right after re-jetting them, and many hours surfing bike forums, I learned that you just can't get "CV" carbs (Ones with a vacuum diaphragm that lift the needle). to work right with open K&N filters. For the life of me, I couldn't get it to run right. Turns out that they need to be enclosed in some sort of plenum (The big doofy looking airbox) in order to function properly. After I reinstalled the airbox it settled down and runs like a champ at least on the rack. I'll no doubt have more tuning to do when I take out and drive it under load.
I had to remount the oil cooler and stand it off another 4 inches. I can't say that I'm happy with the way it looks. Maybe it will grow on me LOL!

You can check out a brief video of me starting it here;

https://youtu.be/sx-AlMsx-58
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  #39  
Old 02-22-2019, 06:40 PM
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I strongly dislike CV carbs, they are efficient though. With 4 cylinders your probably better off leaving it alone.

I converted a kawasaki kz400 engine from dual Keihin CV carbs to a single 34 or 36 mikuni round slide...and GAINED performance. Go figure.

Project looks good. I'm interested to see how well the air shifter works.
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  #40  
Old 02-23-2019, 10:21 PM
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Default #30 Wiring!

Many... Many hours were spent completing the wiring on this kart. You never realize what a pain it will be to wire up all the cool little things you want the kart to do LOL! But I got it done! I still have some work to do to get the gear indicator to work right. I think the sensor os too far away from the magnet as it does not work very accurately. Also I'll have to rethink my idea on the speed sensor as I think the metal shaft collar preventing the sensor from reading the magnets, but that can be done later.
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