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  #461  
Old 05-22-2018, 12:53 PM
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And I also used a splash of that Royal Purple octane booster / fuel stabilizer.
I don't think it should have been knocking.

It is secured to the table with two bolts.
I drilled holes in the table just for this, but the table is cracked.

I'll mount the engine to the buggy and roll it outside.

The tires, the suspension, and the rigid mounting plate should be better than a cracked in half table on some foam. I'll secure the keybox and tach as well.

I can push fit the exhaust extension on it for now, but don't want to weld it yet. It isn’t that tight and might rattle itself.

I've got a cardboard tube I might be able to use to muffle the exhaust? Or burn down my buddy's garage. 4' long, 3" diameter.

Tomorrow I hope to have this straightened out. I'll get some fresh 100 octane if I need to.
If it doesn't run on 93 octane like this, I will be very disappointed. Failed because I didn't GAB Enough.


The thin end of the pipe (the long section with the bend) fits over my exhaust pipe. The wider end will be like a third stage. Will have to cut and weld this extension to make it fit the frame.
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  #462  
Old 05-22-2018, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrashrocker View Post
On their website it doesn't specify which engine it fits. Assuming it's 212 clones and other similar small blocks. I had to "modify" the one I got to fit on a bigblock.

I have no idea if it clears a ring gear. You can look in my dingo thread for the pics I took of it and you might be able to see if a ring gear would clear or not.
I think Vegascarts only deals in big block clones. 390 -460cc engines.

Bob,
These brackets are absolutely for a big block, they were designed on our 460cc engines, but should fit a GX390/Big Block Clone.

Here is the link to the install instructions:
https://www.vegascarts.com/v/instruc...ingBracket.pdf

I have heard that they will also fit small blocks, but I haven’t personally tested it.

-Geoff Warner
VegasCarts.com
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  #463  
Old 05-22-2018, 10:32 PM
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Wow. Cause it didn't come close to fitting my 301.

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

After seeing the instructions in your link. They say to cut down the standoffs. I was lazy and didn't cut them down, but instead compensated for the timing offset.

Either way. I made it work and just by changing the timing, it made a huge feel in the seat improvement.
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  #464  
Old 05-22-2018, 10:39 PM
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After struggling to start the engine yesterday, (I had to crank the starter a bunch of times to get it running and started it a few times), I checked the battery.

I just checked it right now. It is at 13.4Volts. I probably cranked the starter motor 15 times and then let the battery sit for over a day.
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  #465  
Old 05-23-2018, 06:27 AM
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It's not the battery's fault.
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  #466  
Old 05-23-2018, 06:37 AM
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Not sure if that is a pun or not.
Anyway, Let a union electrician check your shorts.

The battery seems good. The engine just doesn't like to start easily. I'm pretty confident I have the correct idle jet in there.

I'll test how it starts with the pull starter. Then I'll test with the startor motor.

Anything worth having is worth waiting for.... Like a running engine.
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  #467  
Old 05-23-2018, 07:03 AM
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Is it possible that you have too much timing advance? With the choke on, that engine should pull as much fuel as it needs. After the failed starting attempts, check the spark plug and see if it is wet from too much fuel.

To rule out the carb and it's jet, just give it a spray of starting fluid.
  #468  
Old 05-23-2018, 07:59 AM
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I think every time I got it started it was with no choke and with the throttle open.
Which made me think the idle jet was rich, but after warming the engine up a bit and playing with three different jets this is the one I felt was best. Gave best adjustment in both directions when turning the mixture screw.

I'll give starting fluid a shot, and also check the plug to see if it's wet.
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  #469  
Old 05-23-2018, 04:16 PM
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Ok so one step forward and two steps back.

I hooked up my pump backwards and now its toast.

I found the choke (enrichment) plunger was loose.

Without the pump, no choke, open throttle, it took about three pulls to start it.

I have a video of me starting it with the electric motor with no carb by spraying starting fluid into the manifold.

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  #470  
Old 05-24-2018, 06:04 AM
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Setbacks are sad.
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  #471  
Old 05-24-2018, 06:13 AM
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How do you know the pump is toast? Does it make any noise when you hook it up correctly? Maybe it just lost it's prime pumping air backwards. If so, let it do a gravity bleed. Tank high, pump low.

So fuel delivery is the only setback? You can still get this motor running well and even moving the kart around. When it runs out of fuel and goes lean, you will feel it. Just don't go doing any FULL throttle sprints. Try and get some bugs worked out with a simple setup that does not have a fuel pump.

Remember to keep the charger on the battery when not working on it. 5+ starts with little idle can really wear a battery down.
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  #472  
Old 05-24-2018, 07:57 AM
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The pump started smoking and now doesn't do anything but get hot and smoke when connected. There's a label saying DO NOT REVERSE CONENCTIONS

I'm going to do a bit more testing today.
I don't even think a 2k RPM idle is going to charge the battery. I don't think the voltage is high enough. I'll do another RPM vs Voltage Test.

Remind me to bring my laser pointer thermometer gun thing.
I want to test the head, the exhaust, and of course the intake manifold.

It was surprisingly chilly when I touched the manifold yesterday. I've heard 30 degrees colder than ambient temps.

Goals for today are simple.

Clamp carb to boot so it doesn't shake loose.
Get it started with the e-starter. (Cold Start)
Remove battery and test Charging Output Voltage vs RPM.
Let engine warm up a bit while testing voltage.
Fiddle around with mixture screw.
Take some temperature measurements.

Then I'll put the battery back on the charger.
I was a bit worried about leaving the battery on this cheap HF charger. I don't think it is a Smart charger? It is only 0.4 amps. Not sure if it is a float charger or just a slow charger? Is there a difference when output is only 0.4 amps?

https://www.harborfreight.com/automa...ger-42292.html

---------- Post added at 08:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:52 AM ----------

Off Topic..
Compressed Air Forced Induction seems awesome!!!
Bet you could make a fast 1/8 mile drag bike that runs off of a 1.5 gallon 3500 psi scuba tank.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/compr...supercharging/
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  #473  
Old 05-24-2018, 08:11 AM
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Isn't that what NOS is?
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  #474  
Old 05-24-2018, 08:45 AM
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Isn't that what NOS is?
Same idea.

More oxygen.

Nitrous, chemically.
Compressed Air, physically.

Both lead to cold intake charge temps which again means more oxygen.

Maybe this is like externally powered blower with nitrous?

Compressed air seems to like more advanced timing than maybe a different style forced induction would like. Not sure what timing a nitrous engine needs.

Perhaps nitrous is why this never took hold and became mainstream.
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:20 AM
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I tested the battery today after using it for a few starts yesterday.
13.3Volts.
I attempted a few starts today and tested it again.
13.1 Volts.

I have it on the charger now.

It still didn't start easily without start fluid.
I didn't want to drain the battery too much.

2k RPM was only giving about 6.5 Volts.
I need above 4k RPM to get 12 Volts out of the charging system.
I need around 4.5k RPM to get above 14 Volts

I figure If I'm not cruising around at a speed of at least 15 mph, then I'm probably not charging the battery.

The pavement temp read ~115 degrees.
The head temp read ~ 230 degrees.
The exhaust temp read ~ 600 degrees.
The outside of the intake manifold temp read ~ 95 degrees (20 degrees cooler than the pavement). I should have taken some other temperature readings, but I didn't)
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  #476  
Old 05-24-2018, 07:12 PM
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Temps sound good.

Now back to the bottle. I did not watch the vid but if your injecting NOS then your just adding more fuel(?). A mix of fuel and oxygen. It gets injested and makes a big boom!

Now if you just inject oxygen (I'm assuming) then I see 2 things.

1. You need more fuel
2. How do you keep the added pressure from just blowing back out the intake?
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  #477  
Old 05-25-2018, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrashrocker View Post
Temps sound good.

Now back to the bottle. I did not watch the vid but if your injecting NOS then your just adding more fuel(?). A mix of fuel and oxygen. It gets injested and makes a big boom!

Now if you just inject oxygen (I'm assuming) then I see 2 things.

1. You need more fuel
2. How do you keep the added pressure from just blowing back out the intake?
NOS is adding O2 and a cooling agent. You must supply the extra fuel to make the extra power.
Or run the engine lean if you don't add more fuel.

1.)
Sure you are going to need more fuel. Depending on how compressed the air is, you may have twice as many oxygen molecules in the same volume. Might need twice as much fuel. 3000 psi from the bottle might become 30 psi at the head (depending on the regulator setting).
So this is like 15 psi of boost with zero degree intake temps.

2.)
How do you keep a fired bullet from going back into the clip?

You are not just injecting additional O2. It is compressed air, not compressed O2, in the bottle.
And The bottle is the sole source of air. When on the bottle, the engine doesn't breath any ambient air.

Imagine filling a huge balloon with air and putting it over the air filter. The air from the balloon enters the chamber though the intake, gets combusted, and then gets pumped out the exhaust. When the balloon runs out of air the engine dies. The only place the engine gets air from is the balloon.

Now replace the balloon with a tank pressurized to 3500 psi or so, connected (with air tight fittings) to the intake end of a throttle body.

The only place for the air to go is into the chamber and out the exhaust. I don't see reversion being an issue at all. The air isn't going back into the bottle. If it tries to escape out of the head (out the intake) - it is going to run into a manifold pressurized to 20 -30 psi, then to bottle pressurized to 3000 psi.

Unless this air is doing some sort of quantum-mechanic tunneling, it is going to be moving in the right direction. If you use a cam with significant overlap, then the cold, compressed intake charge is going to blow straight out the exhaust. Forced Induction Camshaft grinds probably don't have too much overlap.

There's a video? I didn't watch it either.

---------- Post added at 01:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 AM ----------


8 psi of boost was like a 98% gain, like a 400 HP shot of Nitrous.

right out of the box, the little 355ci V8 managed an honest 422 normally aspirated horsepower at 6,100 rpm. This is decent power within reason for a mild small-block. The only thing a touch out of the ordinary was that it required 42 degrees of total ignition timing to achieve this horsepower. With the baseline complete, we didn’t change anything on the small-block except hook up the discharge tube from the CAS system and add Rockett Racing Brand 114-octane race gas, just to keep the 9.2:1 engine free from the possibility of detonation. Staggemeir tried a couple of runs with low boost of 5 psi. The test procedure was much like the way we test with nitrous oxide. We stabilized the engine at peak horsepower at 6,100 rpm and then hit the button on the compressed-air supercharger and allowed the dyno to stabilize while we captured the numbers. Then we recorded the best number under boost and compared that with the number we obtained from the best normally aspirated test. This first run under 5 psi of boost produced 655 corrected horsepower compared to the 422hp baseline at 6,100 rpm. That’s an increase of 232 hp—or nearly a 55 percent power increase. Remember, only 5 psi of boost pressure is already delivering more than a 55 percent power increase.

After some minor tuning, we upped the air pressure to 8 psi for our final test. Westech’s Steve Brulé ran the engine up to 6,100 rpm, Staggemeir hit the button, and the engine immediately responded to the 8 psi of boost with 836 hp at 6,100 rpm. That’s an impressive 414hp gain—a 98 percent power increase—and this was with the CAS system operating at 1,000 cfm.

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  #478  
Old 05-26-2018, 09:42 PM
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This is what I’ve been missing in my life.
A bunch of colored 12 gauge wire.

12 gauge should be good for like 15-20 amps right?
Plenty thick for most my needs.
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  #479  
Old 05-27-2018, 09:07 AM
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14g 15a
12g 20a
10g 30a
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  #480  
Old 05-28-2018, 02:06 AM
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Officially the toughest engine to start I've ever built.
I'm am going to assume that the carb was loose with no clamp and I was getting extra air leaking in.

The idle jet seemed ok because I had a leak, but now with a clamp and no leak - the jet is rich?

Maybe I'll have to try a smaller jet again.
I'll see if a 35 makes for an easier start than a 38 jet.

Or perhaps this manifold just doesn't like me.
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