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  #61  
Old 06-13-2012, 03:06 PM
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How urgently do you need the carb? Just trying to see when I will get a chance to post.
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  #62  
Old 06-13-2012, 10:03 PM
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Hey landuse,
Here are the pics of the carbs I promised.
I have cleaned them all up so you are more likely to buy them
They are all pretty much new.
The throttle bore is approx. .7" or around 18mm
The overall length of the carb is about 52mm.

You can see that one carb has no fuel switch, one has a fuel switch and one has a switch and a second bowl called a strainer cup or sediment cup.

IMO the honda machining and casting is better quality- you get what you pay for.
If you want them give me a shout!

Edit: looking at the mounting holes compared to yours they look to be positioned slightly differently, meaning the carb would be angled. However, I cannot see this being a problem, after all racers use 15* engine mounts, and also we are using these engines on karts and bikes, riding up hills and having the kart angled.

Anyone want carbs???
that one with the two bowls is cool, what is the purpose of the second one? just some form of filtering?
  #63  
Old 06-14-2012, 12:19 AM
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that one with the two bowls is cool, what is the purpose of the second one? just some form of filtering?
Yup, thats correct. It is called a sediment bowl that collects junk that would potentially enter the carb
  #64  
Old 06-14-2012, 02:07 AM
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Do you want to buy it?
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  #65  
Old 06-14-2012, 04:10 AM
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nah, saving up for an amp, just thought that the whole two bowl thing was an interesting concept
  #66  
Old 06-14-2012, 05:55 AM
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Quick update: I have to get rings for my piston so I went and priced them. It is going to cost me $14.25 for the set. I will pick them up tomorrow cos they are on order. The small engine shop will also put them on my piston for me, as I am sure I would do it wrong or break them. They will do that for free.
  #67  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:19 AM
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nah, saving up for an amp, just thought that the whole two bowl thing was an interesting concept
Lol, worth a try
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Quick update: I have to get rings for my piston so I went and priced them. It is going to cost me $14.25 for the set. I will pick them up tomorrow cos they are on order. The small engine shop will also put them on my piston for me, as I am sure I would do it wrong or break them. They will do that for free.
Sounds reasonable. Have fun putting the piston in, try using some lollypop sticks or wooden kabab sticks to help you. A second pair of hands would help also.
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  #68  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:24 AM
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Sounds reasonable. Have fun putting the piston in, try using some lollypop sticks or wooden kabab sticks to help you. A second pair of hands would help also.
Here's two more options:
1. Get hold of a ring compressor or
2. Take the block with you & see if they will slip the ringed piston in (wouldn't hurt to try) but only if you've already honed the bore
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  #69  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:34 AM
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Yeah he could find someone with a ring compressor, but hardly worth the time IMO. It's not that hard. It would be good if the shop could put it in, but I thought half of the point in this teardown and rebuild was to learn something.
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  #70  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:59 PM
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It would be good if the shop could put it in, but I thought half of the point in this teardown and rebuild was to learn something.
Fair point. If you know an easy way, enlighten us; I've been looking for one for years lol
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  #71  
Old 06-15-2012, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Fabroman View Post
Here's two more options:
1. Get hold of a ring compressor or
2. Take the block with you & see if they will slip the ringed piston in (wouldn't hurt to try) but only if you've already honed the bore
Quote:
Originally Posted by r_chez_08 View Post
Yeah he could find someone with a ring compressor, but hardly worth the time IMO. It's not that hard. It would be good if the shop could put it in, but I thought half of the point in this teardown and rebuild was to learn something.
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Fair point. If you know an easy way, enlighten us; I've been looking for one for years lol
I am going to do it the hard, stubborn way. Only way to learn I guess...
  #72  
Old 06-15-2012, 02:03 AM
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I am going to do it the hard, stubborn way. Only way to learn I guess...
Ok, it's your funer.... er... engine
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  #73  
Old 06-15-2012, 02:06 AM
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Lol, the way I did it yesterday was push the rings in with wooden BBQ sticks whilst pushing down on the piston with my face
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  #74  
Old 06-15-2012, 02:18 AM
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Lol, the way I did it yesterday was push the rings in with wooden BBQ sticks whilst pushing down on the piston with my face
Not the way I was planning to do it, but it gives me some ideas.... If I do use my face, I will get a pic of it

I saw that lollypop sticks were used on the AGK website. I was going to try that
  #75  
Old 06-15-2012, 02:36 AM
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Lol, there was nobody to help... Or watch!
I reccon lollipop sticks would be easier.
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  #76  
Old 06-15-2012, 03:06 AM
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but then we don't get to see you use your face
  #77  
Old 06-15-2012, 07:38 AM
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Fabroman - I am assuming that this hone gets put in a drill. How fast must it spin? When I use it, I assume that I move it up and down within the bore. I then change direction and go the other way up and down. Is this correct?

Does the nut on the hone set how wide the stones open? What type of pressure should I put on the bore? Light or heavy?

Sorry for all the questions
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  #78  
Old 06-15-2012, 08:50 AM
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Not the way I was planning to do it, but it gives me some ideas.... If I do use my face, I will get a pic of it
...& how do you plan to take the pic... with your feet? lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by landuse View Post
Fabroman - I am assuming that this hone gets put in a drill. How fast must it spin? When I use it, I assume that I move it up and down within the bore. I then change direction and go the other way up and down. Is this correct?

Does the nut on the hone set how wide the stones open? What type of pressure should I put on the bore? Light or heavy?

Sorry for all the questions
Yes. Slowish. Yes. No.

Nut? Medium.

Did you get all that?

Questions are how we learn, my friend.
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  #79  
Old 06-15-2012, 08:58 AM
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Thanks fabroman. So i dont change direction from clockwise to cc rotation. Got ya. I just thought to get that hatched look, i would have to change.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:10 AM
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Ooooooooooooh, that nut. Yes, it controls how wide the stones sit. basically, you want it to be tight enough to work but not tight enough to damage the bore or the stones. Stick it in the bore, wind it up & let it rip. If it looks like its doing something great. If it doesn't, wind it up a bit. If it feels like the drill is "working" a bit too much, back it off. Remember there's a spring there when you pull it out.

Check out this video; it'll answer a few questions for you.



He's using a ball hone but the process is the same (I could only find one vid using the same hone as yours but the guy didn't kow what he was doing).

Don't try to complete the process in one hit; do about 5 or 6 strokes (in & out = one stroke), stop, wipe, check, repeat
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