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Hey Bob thanks for the invite... It would be an interesting time visiting and conversing about your extensive knowledge of the internal combustion engine field... However it's a little out of my daily route... But, should an occasion occur that my travel shall deviate a few thousand miles into the Chicago area... Il will drop you a line for sure..
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10yr+ club '08-18..My current ride- http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5461 |
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Mr. Spindle (03-29-2018) |
#43
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please do not buy the hf welder
it sucks.
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I just bought a honda! |
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Randy H (03-29-2018) |
#44
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Not exactly budget, but I love my Miller Diversion 180 as a good entry level TIG.
Have you considered some of the stick welders? Start with this one and look at the reviews. It all depends on what you want to do with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...57ada7a46b2db8 Then go to you tube and see what people can do with them. like so: My first ever setup was a Oxygen & Acetylene torch and stick. You can do a lot with that. You learn preparation is key no matter the form of welding. Don't let pother people's pretty welds hurt your feelings. Just avoid slapping weld boogers on that don't actually penetrate and you'll quickly realize that you will never throw away scrap steel again! haha. |
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That's what I was suggesting on page 2.
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You cant get a decent one for under $100 at least new that is....
I currently use the H.F. 170 amp 240 V w/flux core wich does a decent job for small projects and builds...runs about $170. and you can add an argon tank later if you like. Buy the warranty though.......lol |
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I paid $100 for an old Century welder off of craigslist. It is a Lincoln weldpak in sheep's clothing. Uses Lincoln tips. Works great for traveling and quick welds.
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Barry |
#48
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B.S. If you need to know something, ask a teenager, they know everything. I like my HF welder. It doesn't suck, it works.
(Maybe you are confusing shop vacs with welders?)
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I do not recall Congressman. |
#49
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The HF flux core is the '81 Honda Civic of welders. It is the cheapest one on the market, and also, let's say, the "least good". It's cheap, and it works, but it's not good. Some people are happy with cheap and functional. And that's fine. But you can't really get all defensive over someone calling it out as cheaply made, lacking performance, and probably not the best thing to recommend someone buys unless it is literally the only option available. It works, and it sucks. It can be both. I have owned and run everything from the $99 harbor freight to $8000 Millers. The HF is bottom of the barrel, but it IS at least, in the barrel.
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"Well that would be a bomb." |
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Randy H (09-26-2018) |
#50
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I've heard these are pretty good, especially because it is dc, not ac.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Century-...93-1/302139495 |
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#52
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I learned on 3 phase electric motor/generator machines. Very nice with extremely controllable arc. Out of thousands of hours of stick arc time, probably less than 100 on an AC only machine. So lol not super fond of buzzboxes. But they work. Less chance of cold lap (weld metal that isn't fused to the base metal) than other processes, in particular the much loved low current AC flux core machine. Another thing is the expense of leads and/or power cord. Whatever the process or machine. Proper joint prep, clean. No reason to weld over mill scale. The dirtier the material the harder it is to see the weld puddle. Watching the puddle is the key to good welds. If you can watch and control the puddle you'll save on post weld grind time. |
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J.S.@SMS (09-26-2018) |
#53
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A good cheap welder is going to be an old, formerly expensive welder. Good welding machines are still capable of garbage welds, so it still comes down to the person using it.
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I'll show those guys who's in top place, I'll really give 'em a hotrod race. |
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Granted I also went to trade school for welding. I'm seeing some people go to Hobart 210mvp or a Lincoln PowerMig 210 MP instead of buying a harbor freight Vulcan. Both can run 120v or 240v which will give more power and longer duty cycles. Everlast is also becoming popular.
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Whatever I did, I DIDN'T do it! |
#55
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Best dirty metal electrode around is a 6010, but it's gotta run on DCEP and it's a pretty darn agressive burn. Takes some time to get a real good handle on it. 6013 handles dirt/rust better than a lo-hy like 7016 or 7018, but it is a fairly low penetration rod compared to a 6010. As kartorbust mentioned, 6013 was quite popular on sheet metal.
6011 is a similar rod to 6010, made for the same purpose (deep penetration for running root passes), but the flux is a little more chemically active to sustain the arc through the zero voltage point of an AC sinewave. 6010 = cellulose-sodium flux, 6011 = cellulose-potassium flux. No matter what rod you run, material prep will ALWAYS deliver better results than trying to weld over paint, rust, dirt, and poor fitup.
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"Well that would be a bomb." |
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Kartorbust (11-18-2018) |
#56
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Running a 6010 takes a lot of practice to run it with a whip. I wasn't a fan of running 6010, especially 6G on schedule 40 pipe, I thought running a tig root pass was easier. I do agree that prepping metal is very important, as is proper fitment of the joint.
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Whatever I did, I DIDN'T do it! |
#57
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