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Old 08-12-2016, 12:26 PM
james200017 james200017 is offline
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Default New go kart slight (or major) issue

Today we got a manco super deuce. It has a 18 horsepower Honda gx 610cc. I was racing with my brother full throttle, and looked back to see him and saw a huge puff of white smoke come out of the back. I was wondering what this could be, if it's oil and if it is, why? Thanks in advance
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:24 PM
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This link will be more help than me perhaps?
Check for gas in the oil.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Small-Eng...onda-GX610.htm

Usually the Gas in the Crankcase Oil or White Smoke is Caused by a Bad Diaphragm in the Fuel Pump, a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Vent Stuck/Frozen/Broken or the Carburetor Flooding the Engine. If the Engine is Running Good but Smoking White Smoke, 1- Block the Outlet Port and Pull a Vacuum on the Fuel Pump. If it Holds Vacuum, then it is Good. If Not, then the Diaphragm is Busted and the Pump Requires Replacing. If the Fuel Pump is Good, then Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination. If the Crankcase Oil is Contaminated, then Drain and Refill the Crankcase Oil with Fresh Oil. 2- **If the Mower has a Manual Gas Shut Off Valve: Check the Manual Cut Off Valve and Make Sure it is Cutting Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. If Not Stopping the Gas Flow, then Replace the Valve. If the Mower Does Not have a Manual Cut Off Valve: Install a Manual Cut Off Valve and Turn Off the Gas Flow when the Engine is Not in Use.** 3- If the Valve is Good or has Been Installed, then Remove the Cylinder Head. On the OHV Engines the Head gasket will Blow Between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley. This Allow Oil to be Sucked Into the Cylinder from the Crankcase and the Extra Oil is Just Enough to Cause the White Smoke. 4- Check the Crankcase Breather and Make Sure it is Clean and Operating Properly. If the Crankcase Breather Sticks, then Oil is Pulled from the Crankcase into the Carburetor Throat and this Causes the White Smoke. 5- Clean and Rebuild the Carburetor. **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** 6- I Listed the Possible Causes in the Order they Usually Occur. I have had Some People Ask me Why I do the Diagnostics in the Order I Use and it is Simply that Over the Years I have Made a List of the Equipment, the Models and the Problems they have When I Receive them for Repair. Then I Listed the Cause and Repairs Made. I Suggest you Purchase the Service Manual for this Engine. It will have All the Information you Require to Maintain and Keep this Engine Running Good for Many Years. I have Seen So Many Different Makes and Models of Equipment Over the Years, that I Use the Manuals Always for Any and All Repairs. The Basics are Not My Worry; it's the Specifications that Change. Thanks for Using All Experts. Did you Change the Float Needle Valve? You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/Em...EN&TF=Mainfram and Select the Catalog American Honda. Select the Engine File and Scroll Down and Select your Engine. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John



BTW I am NOT John, nor do I punish OP's with blocks of text like ^,
But I dare you to find a better answer! LOL
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:25 PM
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So... just found a more pressing matter. When I parked the kart in the garage, I noticed some oil dripping at a slow rate from the back of the kart. I jacked it up and found that the "transmission" (it doesnt have a sprocket, it has a transmission type thing so you can go in Forward, neutral, and reverse) had a large whole in it. All the oil was gone. When we bought it from the guy, he for some reason disconnected the line or rod so you could change from forward to neutral and reverse. I don't know why. I was wondering if I need to take it back to the guy (we got it off craigslist) or if we should just get a new transmission. I can't seem to find one. There is probably no way to repair it, I'm assuming? It may have been the reason it was a good price....
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:53 PM
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I've found that it is a differential. I've seen people with cars weld them so they get both back tires spinning. Should I do this? Or should I get a whole new differential? Or somehow cover it so no dirt can get it? And if I did that, does it need oil?
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:06 PM
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A pic of the hole would help. If the differential is functioning , then patching the hole is the best and easiest thing to do...and probably the cheapest.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:30 PM
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Sooo. We have a welder. Should I do it that way? Would I get a piece of metal sheet? It's aluminum (I think). Could I use Mig Flux because I don't have tanks yet? Thanks for your help because I was thinking this might have been $500 down the 'ol rat hole.

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

And also, would I need to add oil if I patch it?
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:40 PM
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JB weld.
No kidding.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:52 PM
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If your're not kidding, material should I use to patch it?

---------- Post added at 06:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:45 PM ----------

And also, will it need oil?
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:53 PM
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Only 996 more words to go....
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james200017 View Post
I would appreciate if you would just stop hurting my feelings, my keyboard is covered in tears! But seriously I have not one clue what I'm doing
It's not that...Chancer was serious ....however, I don't see how he can give advice without a picture to see the problem.....

And I'm saying we have alot of words to go to get to one thousand.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:19 PM
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---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------

Ummm, I have posted a picture. I'll go take more if you really want.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:20 PM
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those gears look nice though that MASSIVE HOLE LOL!!!! that sucks. Well... id have to say that that big ol engine didnt help with creating conditions that may or may have led to the destruction of that thinga ma bob
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:31 PM
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Well, here they are.

The whole back of the engine:


The differential (I only think it's a differantial because I jacked it up and held one wheel and spun the other and they are not on the same axle)


Another picture of the differential from the side now:


Gaping whole in differential:


Another depressing picture of the differential:


View of differential looking from the front to the back of the kart:


This to show that at one point in it's lifespan it could go in Forward/Neutral/Reverse:


Those are the pictures I hope you wanted.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:35 PM
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Yeah...something turned loose...your not gonna fix that with JB Weld....(Although with a patch larger than the hole and everything meticulously cleaned...you could. It would definitely still need gear oil at any rate. And..you would have to figure out what broke and what's working.

Maybe it was the reverse gear and that's why the guy you bought it from disconnected the rod....Maybe you did flush $500?
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:38 PM
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Well, what happened is I had parked it, and I guess it leaked some oil, so it must have been open then. I took it out for a spin and it was fine, and then I saw the oil in the garage. I jacked it up and that is how I found it. So what your saying is I or the previous owner didn't hit something, something mechanical went on that put a whole in it?
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
So what your saying is I or the previous owner didn't hit something, something mechanical went on that put a whole in it?
Since you took ownership, yes.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:42 PM
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Ok. So it's not my fault or the previous owners. Perfect, can't blame it on him
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:46 PM
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With that hole, it would have emptied itself immediately.
It did not wait until it got to your garage to start leaking.
No doubt something happened after purchase.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:48 PM
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Do you have any ideas as to how to fix it? I think the cheapest way is to salvage the diferential somehow. One way would be maybe, just maybe welding it and there being not moving parts so I wouldn't need oil (I think). The expensive way I assume is to convert it into live axle.
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:19 PM
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The cheap way to fix that would be to convert it to live axle. The expensive way to fix it would be go to BMI or some other place and buy a new fnr box. Think of it this way for the $500.00 you paid for it you still got a smoking deal, the engine alone is worth that. So yes you can afford to put another 3 or 400 into it and still be ok.

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