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-   -   Rear live axle setup advice. (http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=42213)

dntknwhowtogokart 10-13-2019 05:42 PM

Rear live axle setup advice.
 
Hey everyone, pretty new here and not very good with the technicality of how the rear axle works. I was looking to set up a rear live axle. I currently have 2 1inch pillow block to hold the axle to the frame. I also have a sprocket and chain that fit my clutch, and a breaking band with the drum. I was looking into what else I need to get my rear setup going. I was looking into getting this axle.

Now I believe it would need a key for the 1/4 keyway on the axle. I think I also need something to hold the things using the keys from moving.

So from what I can see, I will need:
1) Tires, was thinking of using these and changing the hubs for the price.

2) Hubs for the tires.
3) Keys for each item attached to the axle.
4) Something to prevent items attached to axle from moving side to side, collars?
5) Something to hold sprocket to axle and to hold breaking band drum to axle.

I think that is everything but maybe not.
Could anyone point me to some items that I should use to get this setup going?

Thanks.

950speed 10-13-2019 06:02 PM

Yes that axle would work just measure.

No those tires will not work
A) they have no key way and have only bearings in the middle
B) they are cheap tires don’t trust them

Yes get keys for axle

I use locking collars to hold stuff from moving side to side

Get a sprocket hub for the sprocket and attach to the axle using a key if needed and locking collars

Not sure about the brake but there should be a hub for it if it is not already included. Use locking collars to brace this again.

madprofessor 10-30-2019 12:55 PM

Live axle info extras.......
 
Don't know about using that Harbor Freight tire. Says it has a 5/8" bearing, and it's meant for garden equipment, not the speed and abuse of gokarts. Your wheels should match your axle, 1" straight live axle, or maybe 1" with 3/4" stepdowns at the ends. What I love about their axles is having that 1/4" keyway down the full length, never trusted setscrews for holding any torque, keystock doesn't spin. Just buy your keystock in 1' lengths, cut as many and as long as you need at the various points of use. Locking collars should always be used to prevent side slippage, and I prefer the split 2-piece collar so it doesn't have to be slid on from the end of the axle, nor have to remove then reinstall parts to get it between components. BMI also has something that's neat and very inexpensive, the plastic sleeves for 1" axles. Cutting steel spacer stock to put between components the way I like is expensive and time consuming. Those plastic sleeves can do the same thing, guarantees if 1 part sideslips on the axle then they all have to. You can also easily notch it for fitting around a piece of keystock sticking out, so it butts up tight to the locking collar or other type part there.

madprofessor 10-30-2019 11:06 PM

Rims preference.......
 
Another thought, since you have to get at least some hubs to fit your axle anyway, might as well start from scratch. I really want to voice my strong preference for split rims (available in 4-5-6" at the very least, I know) and innertubes with "L" stems.
I'll never fight a stiff rubber tire over a 1-piece rim again as long as you live. Nothing at all wrong with split rims with innertubes. The bolts that hold the halves together can double to hold a hub, and a nail in the tire only means a new cheap innertube, with an easy repair since the rim splits.
Also will likely never buy another innertube with a straight stem, the "L"-shaped stem almost always allows easier access for inflation.


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