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-   -   2016 - Arachnid (http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29167)

alexV 04-20-2015 05:23 AM

2016 - Arachnid
 
4 Attachment(s)
Hi,

After introducing myself to the forum, let me start the build thread. I bough the Arachnid plans this winter, spent 2 months researching: how to weld, finding parts in this side of the world, the budget, resources and planning.

My dad has an AC stick welder, 220V. That's it :) I decided the project is feasible, with a total budget of 1500 US $ for parts and tools.

I work only two Saturdays per month on the project, because I build it in my parent's garage and I have to comute. Ok, let's start.

Day 1:
Bought a used chop saw for wood. It works for steels as well, even with undersized disc and half the speed.

Bought the iron from a local shop (incredibly cheap), and spent one day measuring and cutting the bottom of the mainframe. Dad joined the effort, he could not just stand by :)

Also, I bough an original Honda GX270 with electric start. Not new, but the guy says it was never used under load. 1300 lei including shipping. (to get us dollars divide by 4)

Lastly, I bough a honda 2:1 reduction wet clutch, from ebay, from Germany. 600 lei. The parts sourced outside my country are expensive, but within budget.

alexV 04-20-2015 05:24 AM

In the following days I will post more. The welding part is fun fun fun.

landuse 04-20-2015 05:39 AM

Have a look at these threads of people who have build them

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8493
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9463
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8615
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8537
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=17807

alexV 04-20-2015 09:03 AM

Thank you.
I read all of them, multiple times and they helped alot. For example, the wet clutch with 2:1 reduction gears is from Wobbly's post. In Europe, torque converters are not common at all.

OzFab 04-20-2015 07:53 PM

Wait! Stop! We have a build-off starting in just under 2 weeks; I know you're anxious to build but, if you hold off, you can enter & be part of the contest; what do you think?

It's good to see you using all the proper safety gear :thumbsup:

chancer 04-20-2015 09:03 PM

It's good to see you using all the proper safety gear :thumbsup:[/QUOTE]

I am loving that lab coat. Please I am not insulting you, We just don't see that here in the states. It reminds me of an old Mad Scientist:stir: movie or something.:cornut:

Also fill in your profile so everyone can easily see your in Transylvania.

alexV 04-21-2015 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fabroman (Post 362209)
Wait! Stop! We have a build-off starting in just under 2 weeks; I know you're anxious to build but, if you hold off, you can enter & be part of the contest; what do you think?

It's good to see you using all the proper safety gear :thumbsup:

That sounds awesome!!

Already spent 5 days building, just haven't uploaded all the pics yet. The middle of the kart and most of the backside is already welded. If this counts as more than 50% done, oh well...

I will register in the competition regardless. Cheers!:cheers2:

chancer 04-21-2015 06:17 PM

I think you can start with a complete frame. Double check and keep on welding. 2 years ago a guy that won had somebody else bend up his frame. (JK Tony)

alexV 04-22-2015 11:25 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Competition rules say my build must not be more than 50% complete when starting. I will not work any more until the competition starts.

Here's what happened on day 2 (out of 5 already spent)
Started to stick weld after some practice, using 2mm 6013 electrodes, on 2 mm thick steel. Not good looking welds though I am sooo proud. :wai:

Two sizes of steel tubes are used: 30x30 mm steel tube almost everywhere, and 25x25 mm for inner bracing and A-arms. The thickness is 2mm, or the equiv of #14 in the US.

The mainframe outer ring is welded good enough, but at the inner bracing I burned holes in almost EVERY weld:furious2: How could this happen ?! Turns out the 25x25 tubes are thinner, only 1.6 mm (#16 US), different than what it says on the receipt. Now trying to replace the remaining, or buy new steel.

The seat is from a scrap yard, just for mock.

My cat got in the way while building. But the dog waited patiently until the end of day.

alexV 04-22-2015 11:32 AM

I learned to weld from youtube (mostly ChuckE9000 channel). To hold the steel in place while tack welding, I clamped the tubes in position with clamps and pieces of angle iron screwed to the plywood that's used as a building surface. Tack weld the corners, then weld all the outer edges first, all the inner edges second, top and bottom joints in the end.

The result is surprinsingly good. :thumbsup:

alexV 04-22-2015 11:39 AM

Oh, for anyone building the Arachnid kart, STRETCH the mainframe. I did by 13cm (~5 inch) and I believe this is the bare minimum for an adult. Go 25cm or 10 inch with confidence, it;s easy at this early stage.

alexV 04-22-2015 11:45 AM

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Also important, I drilled holes for the brake and gas pedals before welding.

Here's one last photo. You can see his confidence.:sifone:

chancer 04-22-2015 04:05 PM

Looking good so far. Darn Cat!

OzFab 04-22-2015 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chancer (Post 362314)
2 years ago a guy that won had somebody else bend up his frame. (JK Tony)

True, I had someone bend it but, I still had to tweak it & weld it all together... that is after I designed it using sketchy pics & a few measurements ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexV (Post 362385)
Oh, for anyone building the Arachnid kart, STRETCH the mainframe. I did by 13cm (~5 inch) and I believe this is the bare minimum for an adult. Go 25cm or 10 inch with confidence, it;s easy at this early stage.

Be careful when stretching the length as that will alter the wheelbase measurement which, in turn, may alter the steering/handling (not as responsive & larger turning circle); if you adjust the wheelbase you should also adjust the track accordingly...

landuse 04-23-2015 12:29 AM

Good job so far Alex. From what i can see your welds do not look too bad.

That cat looks bada$$

OzFab 04-23-2015 01:45 AM

We need close up pics to verify that... the strength of the welds, that is, not the bada$$ness of the cat :lolgoku:

alexV 04-24-2015 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fabroman (Post 362437)
Be careful when stretching the length as that will alter the wheelbase measurement which, in turn, may alter the steering/handling (not as responsive & larger turning circle); if you adjust the wheelbase you should also adjust the track accordingly...

Thanks, more things to be aware of: wheel base and track. What is track?

To be honest, I am relying on the fact that such a small build allows large fault tolerance. Except the front independent suspension of course, which will be a challenge. Until now I am only 1cm wider than expected, and absolutely no bend or warp in the frame. :D

alexV 04-24-2015 04:47 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Thank you everyone for the cheering messages!

Here's day 3:
Grinded some welds and re-welded. Then continued with the mainframe. The progress may be slow, but it's ok with me, first time using power tools :)

I bought a 16mm drill bit to use for A-arm bushings and to make my own brackets. Bushings are made in a lathe, starting from a 25mm round steel bar. Brackets are home-made, from 40x40 mm angle iron, 4mm thick. Looks good to me.

Lastly I purchased 4 wheels 19x7 on 8 inch rims. 400 lei (divide by 4 to get US $). The plans call for 18 inch balloon tires, mine are pretty close. However, two were damaged and needed inside tube (extra 100 lei), and the rims have incredibly small bolt pattern, all are front side rims of some Chinese quad. I will have to come up with custom hubs.

alexV 04-24-2015 04:49 AM

That chop saw is really a great tool, don't know how to cut so many accurate angles without it. :2guns:

landuse 04-24-2015 05:34 AM

Looking good Alex!!


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