Is it time to regear?

[toystory_4wd]

For laffs, I attached a string to the governor arm, and went for a testdrive. At full speed, WOT, I pulled the string. Made absolutely no difference. So my engine is not making max revs at WOT. I interpret this to mean that I need to regear, to take full advantage of the engine's available RPM range. Yes/no?

It's a very heavy kart, probably 400 lbs with me on it. Bone stock Honda GX340 11hp, Comet 40 torque convertor (1:1, no OD) final drive ratio is 4:1, drive tires are 18x9.50x8.

My guess is, with deeper gears, say 5:1 final, the engine will spin easier throughout the RPM range, and ultimately be able to top out at 3600 like it should...

Any thoughts, folks? -Thanks, Chris

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/toystory_4wd/gokart/100_1510.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/toystory_4wd/gokart/100_1513.jpg

[Rotore]

probably those are some huge tires

[Kenny_McCormic]

Needs lower final gearing, take a few teeth off the driver sprocket.

[jr dragster Tyler]

Also if pulling the governer didnt make any difference then your not reaching your governed RPM yet. Engine is still working.

[Kenny_McCormic]

Also if pulling the governer didnt make any difference then your not reaching your governed RPM yet. Engine is still working.

If gearing is too high it will not rev up. Go hop on your dirtbike, get going 5-10 mph, and upshift to the highest gear it has, then gun it, you aint goin nowhere.

OP: Try stiffer driven spring setting before dropping $ on a new sprocket. This will make the trans shift later.

[mike75925]

shouldn't it be that if you pull the arm and nothing happens that you are at max?

[Kaptain Krunch]

shouldn't it be that if you pull the arm and nothing happens that you are at max?
If its governed, and running at 3600rpm and you override the governor it should rev even more. If the engine is struggling at say 3000rpms and you override the governor then it wont rev any higher.

[mike75925]

if it is still governed, i have not seen an indication either way. some people will leave the arm although the governor is yanked. if it is struggling, you would hear it in the exhaust note as with any other engine

[jr dragster Tyler]

If gearing is too high it will not rev up. Go hop on your dirtbike, get going 5-10 mph, and upshift to the highest gear it has, then gun it, you aint goin nowhere.

OP: Try stiffer driven spring setting before dropping $ on a new sprocket. This will make the trans shift later.

I know what your saying. Engine just goes DUH DUH DUH DUH DUHHHHHHHHHH then adventually takes off but takes a LONG time go get to full speed.

[EagleTalons]

Is that a torque converter on it or a belt clutch?

[toystory_4wd]

That's a Comet 40 torque convertor...
So, I guess I'm in the neighborhood with my line of thinking, that the engine's labouring. I thought it could use a little more giddyap...
I read somewhere about how to use a bicycle computer as a tach, I think I'm gonna give it a try, so If I'm looking at regearing, I won't be just guessing. Also, Kenny brought up an interesting point, in that I had no idea there was an adjustment to be made on the driven pulley. My paperwork says there's a couple different DRIVER springs, but nothing about the driven side. Obviously, messing with the driver here does me no good.
I'd prefer a driven adjustment over a re-gear not only because of cost, but of course chain setup and adjustment...

Thanks for your continued help! Cheers- Chris

[mike75925]

you can adjust the tension on the driven clutch usually, there are three holes in which to place the spring on the driven. not sure which is tighter/looser but i would go with lefty loosy/righty tighty if i couldn't get any info.

[Kenny_McCormic]

Adjusting the spring tension on the driven pulley changes the rpm range at which the unit shifts into high gear. The three numbered holes on the cam are used to change the spring tension. Hole #1 provides the least tension and allows the unit to shift gears at a lower rpm. This is good for flat ground. Hole #3 provides the most tension and allows the unit to shift gears at a higher rpm. This is good for hilly terrain. Hole #2 is the factory setting providing medium tension good for the most common riding conditions.

You must pre-load the spring when installing it into the driven pulley. After placing the end of the spring in the desired hole and aligning the flat spots in the center of the cam with the flats on the post, just before pushing the cam all the way on to the post, turn the movable sheave clockwise -- tightening the spring -- bringing the buttons past the points of the cam and into the next valley. While holding tension on the spring, push the cam all the way on to the post and secure it with the snap ring. When you release the movable sheave the spring should rotate it counter-clockwise until the plastic buttons press against the cam. The insert buttons must not "float" between the cams.

[toystory_4wd]

So THATS what the "thanks" button does... I do appreciate the information, I couldn't find that, and I was hesitant to just tear into it for fear of funking up a preload or something. It's probably going to be a few days before I can crack into it, but I'll let y'all know how it turns out! Cheers- Chris